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Seagull 120 PC9 Assembly (Read 22,410 times)
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Show the link to this post Seagull 120 PC9 Assembly
Jan 31st, 2013 at 8:28pm
 
I'm well into the assembly of the Seagull PC9 120 size model.  The kit pieces were of high quality and a good fit. The ultracote covering had bubbles; but, shrank extremely well as compared to some other kits I have owned. At first, I wasn't too fussy with the supplied motor mount; however, after I installed the engine, the mount seemed strong enough and it may absorb some of the vibration from the 120 four stroke.  Time will tell.  The retracts are mounted and went fairly well; however, the buggers didn't have a centering spring on the nosegear.  Consequently, when the nose gear retracted the wheel would turn and catch up on the fuselage.  I modified the nosegear and everything is good so far.  I'm waiting on a 90 degree manifold so that the muffler will point out the bottom of the fuse.  Found a place in the UK for this called Just Engines Link.
Now, just have to plumb the tank, trim the cowl, etc etc, and all will be ready for the spring.

Bruce
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« Last Edit: Jan 31st, 2013 at 8:51pm by administrator »  

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Show the link to this post Re: Seagull 120 PC9 Assembly
Reply #1 - Jan 31st, 2013 at 9:08pm
 
I LIKE IT!
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Reply #2 - Feb 1st, 2013 at 12:09am
 
I like it. Should be a smooth flyer!
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Show the link to this post Re: Seagull 120 PC9 Assembly
Reply #3 - Feb 1st, 2013 at 6:54am
 
Sweet plane!  Going to sound good too! Cheesy
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Reply #4 - Feb 1st, 2013 at 12:50pm
 
looking pretty good there Bubbles..
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Reply #5 - Feb 1st, 2013 at 8:55pm
 
Very nice indeed but what is that ugly black and silver squarish thing with all the switches and the 2 sticks? 

P.S. - I would consider putting some heat shrink tubing on your nose steering cables where they go through the clevis couplers.  The nose steering cables on my old Tornado would bind up and cause the nose gear to not retract all the way which would not allow the gear to lock.  Some heat shrink tubing was a quick and easy remedy.
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Show the link to this post Re: Seagull 120 PC9 Assembly
Reply #6 - Feb 1st, 2013 at 9:04pm
 
Ramzz wrote on Feb 1st, 2013 at 8:55pm:
P.S. - I would consider putting some heat shrink tubing on your nose steering cables


Ahhh!! Good idea. Thanks Mark.

Bruce
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Show the link to this post Re: Seagull 120 PC9 Assembly
Reply #7 - Feb 1st, 2013 at 11:58pm
 
administrator wrote on Feb 1st, 2013 at 9:04pm:
Ramzz wrote on Feb 1st, 2013 at 8:55pm:
P.S. - I would consider putting some heat shrink tubing on your nose steering cables


Ahhh!! Good idea. Thanks Mark.

Bruce


Another good idea may be to cut some relief slots on the main wing spar.  That way it will make it easier to transport after the maiden.
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Show the link to this post Re: Seagull 120 PC9 Assembly
Reply #8 - Feb 2nd, 2013 at 12:21am
 
Yea, that's a great idea!!!  And I'll buy some skyhooks to keep it off the ground at the field.  Grin
Oh, by the way Mark, see Finger's Avitar. Grin Grin

Bruce
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Reply #9 - Feb 2nd, 2013 at 8:23am
 
Punching a few "speed holes" through the wing is always a good idea  Cheesy
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Reply #10 - Feb 5th, 2013 at 8:34am
 
Bruce , which nosegear did you use? can you post some pics of the nose gear? Huh
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Reply #11 - Feb 5th, 2013 at 10:21am
 
..
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Reply #12 - Feb 7th, 2013 at 12:30am
 
JackDD wrote on Feb 5th, 2013 at 8:34am:
Bruce , which nosegear did you use? can you post some pics of the nose gear? Huh


Sorry Jack.  Just noticed your post.  I used the gear in the kit.  Good gear; but, like I said," No centering spring."  As soon as the gear retracted and the pull pull steering cables loosen, the wheel turned and would catch up on the fuse.  I just added a spring as in the attachment and that took care of things.

Bruce
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Reply #13 - Feb 7th, 2013 at 11:17am
 
Okay, Bruce are you using push pull wires on the steering?
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Reply #14 - Feb 7th, 2013 at 12:54pm
 
JackDD wrote on Feb 7th, 2013 at 11:17am:
Okay, Bruce are you using push pull wires on the steering?

Yes, I am.

Bruce
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Reply #15 - Feb 7th, 2013 at 8:47pm
 
I received the 90 degree manifold from JustEngines in the UK today.  It took less than a week to get here, is made of high quality steel, threading is perfect and the price was about 25.00 Canadian plus shipping.  What a difference it makes too.  The engine and muffler will be completely hidden by the cowl side.  Attached are pictures with both the standard manifold and 90 manifold installed on the engine.  Now on to some cowl trimming. Smiley
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« Last Edit: Feb 7th, 2013 at 8:51pm by administrator »  

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Reply #16 - Feb 8th, 2013 at 7:50am
 
Looks good Bruce, nice stuff.
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Reply #17 - Feb 9th, 2013 at 9:22am
 
Great Idea bruce  Shocked
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« Last Edit: Feb 9th, 2013 at 9:25am by JackDD »  
 
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Reply #18 - Feb 9th, 2013 at 8:06pm
 
That is a nice trick exhaust for that application.  Cleans it up nice.

I have an ASP 91 4 stroke in my Hangar 9 spit and I had major overheating issues until I opened up the cowl to let air through.  I have it mounted horizontal with a bit more of the cylinder head sticking out of the cowl when compared to your install.  Just something to be mindful of during the maiden.
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Reply #19 - Feb 9th, 2013 at 8:15pm
 
Yea Mark, I was a bit concerned about that.  I am going to cut an inlet hole on the front of the cowl and the exhaust holes should have about three times the diameter.  I have to trim out the cowl for the exhaust and I plan to cut exhaust air holes in the fake exhaust.  Lots of room to take the hot air out.

Thanks for the comment.

Bruce
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