I'm well into the assembly of the Seagull PC9 120 size model.  The kit pieces were of high quality and a good fit. The ultracote covering had bubbles; but, shrank extremely well as compared to some other kits I have owned. At first, I wasn't too fussy with the supplied motor mount; however, after I installed the engine, the mount seemed strong enough and it may absorb some of the vibration from the 120 four stroke.  Time will tell.  The retracts are mounted and went fairly well; however, the buggers didn't have a centering spring on the nosegear.  Consequently, when the nose gear retracted the wheel would turn and catch up on the fuselage.  I modified the nosegear and everything is good so far.  I'm waiting on a 90 degree manifold so that the muffler will point out the bottom of the fuse.  Found a place in the UK for this called Just Engines Link.
Now, just have to plumb the tank, trim the cowl, etc etc, and all will be ready for the spring.

Bruce

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I LIKE IT!

I like it. Should be a smooth flyer!

Sweet plane!  Going to sound good too! :D

looking pretty good there Bubbles..

Very nice indeed but what is that ugly black and silver squarish thing with all the switches and the 2 sticks? 

P.S. - I would consider putting some heat shrink tubing on your nose steering cables where they go through the clevis couplers.  The nose steering cables on my old Tornado would bind up and cause the nose gear to not retract all the way which would not allow the gear to lock.  Some heat shrink tubing was a quick and easy remedy.

Ramzz wrote on Feb 1^st, 2013 at 8:55pm:

P.S. - I would consider putting some heat shrink tubing on your nose steering cables

Ahhh!! Good idea. Thanks Mark.

Bruce

administrator wrote on Feb 1^st, 2013 at 9:04pm:

Ramzz wrote on Feb 1st, 2013 at 8:55pm: P.S. - I would consider putting some heat shrink tubing on your nose steering cables Ahhh!! Good idea. Thanks Mark. Bruce

Another good idea may be to cut some relief slots on the main wing spar.  That way it will make it easier to transport after the maiden.

Yea, that's a great idea!!!  And I'll buy some skyhooks to keep it off the ground at the field.  ;D
Oh, by the way Mark, see Finger's Avitar. ;D ;D

Bruce

Punching a few "speed holes" through the wing is always a good idea  :D

Bruce , which nosegear did you use? can you post some pics of the nose gear? :-?

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JackDD wrote on Feb 5^th, 2013 at 8:34am:

Bruce , which nosegear did you use? can you post some pics of the nose gear? :-?

Sorry Jack.  Just noticed your post.  I used the gear in the kit.  Good gear; but, like I said," No centering spring."  As soon as the gear retracted and the pull pull steering cables loosen, the wheel turned and would catch up on the fuse.  I just added a spring as in the attachment and that took care of things.

Bruce

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Okay, Bruce are you using push pull wires on the steering?

JackDD wrote on Feb 7^th, 2013 at 11:17am:

Okay, Bruce are you using push pull wires on the steering?

Yes, I am.

Bruce

I received the 90 degree manifold from JustEngines in the UK today.  It took less than a week to get here, is made of high quality steel, threading is perfect and the price was about 25.00 Canadian plus shipping.  What a difference it makes too.  The engine and muffler will be completely hidden by the cowl side.  Attached are pictures with both the standard manifold and 90 manifold installed on the engine.  Now on to some cowl trimming. :)

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Looks good Bruce, nice stuff.

Great Idea bruce  :o

That is a nice trick exhaust for that application.  Cleans it up nice.

I have an ASP 91 4 stroke in my Hangar 9 spit and I had major overheating issues until I opened up the cowl to let air through.  I have it mounted horizontal with a bit more of the cylinder head sticking out of the cowl when compared to your install.  Just something to be mindful of during the maiden. 

Yea Mark, I was a bit concerned about that.  I am going to cut an inlet hole on the front of the cowl and the exhaust holes should have about three times the diameter.  I have to trim out the cowl for the exhaust and I plan to cut exhaust air holes in the fake exhaust.  Lots of room to take the hot air out.

Thanks for the comment.

Bruce

looking good.... always loved the 4 strokes and used them exclusively for years - always had that exhaust problem.... nice to see it's being addressed now...

Good idea on the air holes.  I didn't have to cut very much of an inlet/outlet hole in order for it to cool properly.  I wouldn't trade my ASP 91 for anything.  Love it.