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BUSA Junkers D1 (Read 47,628 times)
 
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Show the link to this post BUSA Junkers D1
Feb 14th, 2017 at 7:01pm
 
Now that the spit is almost done. I decided my next project in the 1/4 scale Junkers D1 from Balsa USA.
Again I wanted something a little different,  Roll Eyes and I had been thinking on making a smaller electric one until I came across the kit. I wanted something without retracts and thus fits the bill.
I placed an order through Great Hobbies and it should be here the 1st week of March. I had decided on the DLE61 but changed the order to DA50. Being my first large plane ($$$$) I wanted something that I can get serviced and parts easily for.
Right now I have the servos. The same that Sandy is using in the Hurricane. 1/4 Wheels, large fuel tank, control horns, and fiberglass rolls are all on the way. Once I see the manual, I will get whatever else is required.

Marc
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Reply #1 - Feb 14th, 2017 at 8:21pm
 
Lordy I love that plane Marc. When it came out I almost pulled the trigger, then remembered I have a laser cut 1/4 scale Moth here in the basement.............sigh, so many planes, so little time...
I don't think parts for DLE's will be an issue. They have become very common, less expensive than DA as well. But you will have a super combination there.... Angry
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Show the link to this post Re: BUSA Junkers D1
Reply #2 - Mar 13th, 2017 at 1:32pm
 
The DA50 was on backorder so went back to the DLE61. Kit arrived today and going to review the manual.

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Reply #3 - Mar 14th, 2017 at 9:30am
 
Still love it!! Wasn't it called the Iron Donkey? Something like that..
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Show the link to this post Re: BUSA Junkers D1
Reply #4 - Mar 19th, 2017 at 12:16pm
 
Started the build with the wingtip laminations. I thought it would be easier to drill holes in the form to accept clamps rather than screw it to a bench and use weights to keep the wood against the form.

Started a wing panel but the ca fumes drove me from the shop. Very dry and the ca is curing slowly.
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Reply #5 - Mar 19th, 2017 at 1:00pm
 
PVA isn't all that heavier Marc. A bit slower, but since fumes are driving you from the shop it might be an idea.
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Show the link to this post Re: BUSA Junkers D1
Reply #6 - Mar 25th, 2017 at 4:27pm
 
Got back to "next winters" build Roll Eyes . The issue with the ca may be that I am using Murcury CA. Normally use BSI.

I have both outer wing panels framed. I don't like butt joints, especially end grain butt joints so I pinned the ends of the laminated parts with round toothpicks.
The ailerons were to be hinged near the top skin with flat hinges. I was unsure of the longevity of this on a large aileron, so I modified the ailerons to take dubro hinges. They will be recessed into ailerons for a snug fit. I also fastened up a jig to drill the hinge points.
Will start on the wing center section tomorrow once its laminations are dried.

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Reply #7 - Mar 28th, 2017 at 5:41am
 
Looks very nice Mark. Keep the pics coming . Smiley
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Reply #8 - Mar 28th, 2017 at 3:19pm
 
Very nice. I think the change to Dubro hinges is a good idea...
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Reply #9 - Mar 29th, 2017 at 10:04pm
 
Keep the pics coming Mark.
Looking good.
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Show the link to this post Re: BUSA Junkers D1
Reply #10 - Apr 9th, 2017 at 2:36pm
 
I had a hard time finding fiberglass/circuit boards to make the hinges. But when walking paste an equipment room at work someone had throuwn out 2 blanks. Well, I scooped them up fast. Shocked removed the faceplate and a trip to the hobby shop for piano wire and some golden rods for a wire guide. Now I was ready to go.
I figured it would only take an hour Embarrassed no, more like 3 but got them done.
Sheeted the bottom of the wings and getting ready for the wing tube setup.
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Reply #11 - Apr 9th, 2017 at 6:55pm
 
Gotta love those throw out boxes Marc
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Reply #12 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 6:14pm
 
Got back into the build. Started by finding where I stored the wings over the summer. 2 hours later I gave up trying to find them. So started on repairs to sport plane. And there they were at the top of my fuselage rack   Embarrassed

Assembling the panels show that one wing shifted by 1/8 at rear of wing joiner.  Angry
Ended up cutting the wing box joiner loose and repositioned so it sits flush against the center section.

I started on the tail. This is a layered build. Make the frame with 1/4in and then build another 1/4in on top so that the joints all overlaps. Makes a strong frame. Still need to add the 1/8in skins.
I went to pei yesterday so stopped at Great Hobbies and got some glue and large hinges. I added material for the hinges to sit in.
Having never built a 1/4 scale before I am following the instructions but the H stab seem over engineered. Strong already and no skin ot glass yet.

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Reply #13 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 7:38pm
 
Way good start Marc. Keep at it.
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Reply #14 - Dec 19th, 2017 at 11:34pm
 
This is pretty much a stock build. I read a build log where lots of effort was put into lightening the tail end. Since i have the H-stab and elevator skinned I will leave that alone. I wanted to replace the steele rod for the rudder tiller with carbon tube but was concerened about it splitting so stuck with the rod. I will see about lightening the skin.

Got started on the fuse. Just a very large stick n tissue model here to start. Spent some time ensuring the tail end and front were level. Don't want a bannana fuselage  Embarrassed all was square so happy about that Smiley
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Reply #15 - Dec 19th, 2017 at 11:43pm
 
In the build log it was mentioned that the model kept climbing and was a little twitchy. There were comments that busa planes are setup for lots of lift.
The plans show wing at +2.5deg, stab at 0deg and engine at -1 or -2. So I modded the plans so the H-stab is now at +1deg and I will set the engine to 0 or -1deg. Hope that will remove the balooning.
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Reply #16 - Dec 20th, 2017 at 7:36am
 
Still looking great Marc. Also good to see you're shrinking the pics now! Easier to see them. I saw the comments about the plane climbing as well - I thought at the time it was because guys fly their scale planes way too fast. This was a 140 mph lead sled in real life......
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Reply #17 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 6:04pm
 
When i started on the tail skid, I found that former F8 didn't fit. Checking against the plans show it is die cut too small. I did want to try a sprung tailskid so i looked around the shop for makings. I wanted a simple designe to save weight. I used a peice of oak for the skid and a few springs.


I spent the last few days sheeting the fuse sides as well as sheeted the wing tops. I added the leading edge and rough shaped.
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Reply #18 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 7:08pm
 
Very nice Marc. Jeremy with his ax handles on the Fokker, you with oak tail skid....pattern developing here.
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Reply #19 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 8:16am
 
Great stuff Marc! I like looking at the other stuff on the walls and places also. Your stuff is cool. Cool
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Reply #20 - Jan 13th, 2018 at 2:48am
 
Been slowly building the junkers made the top deck. Then found out I should have built the rudder post. Bit of fiddling to get the blocks seated. Would have been alot easier to clamp the rudder post before the top skin was added.
Started on shaping the tail cone. After that, work on the front end to mount guns and engine.
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Reply #21 - Jan 13th, 2018 at 12:57pm
 
Very nice and Junkersey...
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Reply #22 - Jan 13th, 2018 at 2:38pm
 
Nice work!
Are you using the purple/green scheme?
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Reply #23 - Jan 13th, 2018 at 4:32pm
 
Yes, I will be doing the purple and green.

Spent some time today looking for a 3/16 control arm with a set screw for the rudder. I don't want to solder the metal one from the kit as I would like to be able to remove the rudder for repairs and such. Not sure what I am doing on that yet.
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Reply #24 - Jan 13th, 2018 at 10:14pm
 
use one from a nosewheel Marc
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Reply #25 - Jan 14th, 2018 at 1:33am
 
Nose wheels are almost all 5/32. If i can i would like to use pull/pull. But I suspect I will be modifying a control arm.
I did get around to shaping the tail cone. So, need to start on the nose. Simple look but lots of work to be done Smiley
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Reply #26 - Jan 19th, 2018 at 10:08pm
 
While carving the tail block I noticed there was a dip in the top skin. This was at a spot that the skin was reluctant to bond too. Looks like I used too much presure convincing it too bond. Didn't take too long to straighten.
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Reply #27 - Jan 19th, 2018 at 10:15pm
 
Been working on the hatch. Not the simplest design, but should dress up the D1.
Tonight I made the radiator. Some spacers, paint and looks not too bad. At least I think so.
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Reply #28 - Jan 19th, 2018 at 10:17pm
 
Sitting on the hstch. I will not glue until I start to paint

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Reply #29 - Jan 21st, 2018 at 6:08am
 
That's looking real nice sitting on there! Smiley
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Reply #30 - Jan 21st, 2018 at 6:17pm
 
I did start on the dummy engine but was side tracked by the guns while waiting for the exhaust pipe to set Roll Eyes

So, I spent the weekend making the spandaus.
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Reply #31 - Jan 25th, 2018 at 6:48am
 
Those look great, Marc!
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Reply #32 - Jan 25th, 2018 at 6:56am
 
Not only do they look great but there huge! Unless that's a mini table there on. Grin  Nice stuff!
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Reply #33 - Jan 26th, 2018 at 5:59pm
 
Helmut Von Strap checking out the progress on his office
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Reply #34 - Jan 26th, 2018 at 10:14pm
 
Very nice Marc....yuge too
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Reply #35 - Jan 29th, 2018 at 9:41pm
 
Making the dummy is a lot more work than I planned on. I modded the cam and rockers boxes to a more scale look, then added rocker arms. The plan layout was used for the exhaust but that doesn't fit the hatch size. Angry
Will need to get new tubes to make the fit.
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Reply #36 - Jan 29th, 2018 at 9:43pm
 
Added the rocker arms tonight. Need to secure them better and weather the dummy a bit.
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Reply #37 - Jan 30th, 2018 at 7:26am
 
WOW Mark, your details are fantastic! That plane is going to be Cool. Can't wait to see it. Cheesy
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Reply #38 - Feb 17th, 2018 at 12:18pm
 
Not much accomplished the past few weeks. Had a surprise family visit and lots of out of town work.
So, almost completed the dummy BMW. Added the exhaust system. I tried to simulate welding around the joints. Added some weathering of worn paint and a bit of rust. I just need to add the bolt heads to the box covers.

I am unable to add pic as well.
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Reply #39 - Feb 17th, 2018 at 12:29pm
 
Opinions on pushrods for larger plane.
I have seen carbon rods with the metal threaded end attached. The appear to be just epoxied into the end. Is this strong enough?
On wooden pushrods I normally make an "L" bend, drill a hole in the dowel, glue and bind.
Should I get some larger carbon tubes and mimic the wood dowel method, Or am I ok to epoxy into the tube?

Marc
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Reply #40 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 1:35pm
 
Dummy engine, still needing bolts on the cam covers.
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Reply #41 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 1:43pm
 
Working on the landing gear and found my springs were not strong enough to hold the tail.  Angry
While working out what needed to be done using bungee, i had the skid assembly break. Angry  the plywood de-laminated. Most of my ply center was a knot.   
Made a new assembly that will use bungee cord. I should be able ti adjust the tension. Thinking of leaving a hatch there for access.

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Reply #42 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 2:03pm
 
The main gear is just wire bent to take a wheel. The Junkers should have a fairing that the axle sits in so I made some spacers out of music wire and soldered them to the existing gear. The old 'wheel axles' were cut off.
To make and mount the fairing took a lil more thought as the legs would flex apart so needed a flexible connection, but firm enough to not flap around.
A simple solution was to use golden rods. I glued  a piece of the outer guide inside the four corners. Cut some inner rods about 2-2.5 inches long, in one end I drilled a hole for mounting wire in to attach the the legs. The inner rods can pull out of the faring a bit and still hold the fairing in place. In the pic you can see a bit of the yellow inner rod. Bit of paint should hide that.

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Reply #43 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 2:11pm
 
First time all together.

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Reply #44 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 2:12pm
 
Better pic of the spandau's
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Reply #45 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 2:14pm
 
Better pic of tge hatch
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Reply #46 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 2:15pm
 
Helmut Von Strapp ready for business.
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Reply #47 - Feb 19th, 2018 at 11:25am
 
Looking very nice Marc.
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Reply #48 - Feb 24th, 2018 at 7:43pm
 
So... I was worried about cutting the pushrods too short. Ended up a little long. My solution was to move the servo rails.
While cutting the rails out I slipped  Embarrassed put a 9x6 inch hole in the side of the fuse  Angry  Angry Embarrassed Tongue Angry
After a bit of %$@#& and tears I fixed the hole.

I had to re-do the tail skid and used bungee. Think I have enough tension. I figure I will need access so I built a hatch to access everything.

Installed a brace for the pushrods and added some vaseline to keep friction down.

Added some filler to spots...and the side of the fuse.  Embarrassed Tomorrow i start sanding, then glassing.

Still need to measure and order a muffler. That will mean cutting out some internal structure.  Undecided
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Reply #49 - Feb 25th, 2018 at 3:01pm
 
Gotta hate those "slips"  Angry
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Reply #50 - Feb 25th, 2018 at 3:39pm
 
Yes,  Embarrassed
Spent part of the day sanding and filling. Little bit more sanding on the wings and it will be time to glass. But first have to tidy up to make room to work abd dry Undecided
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Reply #51 - Feb 27th, 2018 at 10:20pm
 
Think I need to step back from the D1.

As i stated in an above post, last Saturday I put a huge hole in fuse. Monday the 'last bit of sanding' resulted in my sanding block slipping out of my hand and going right through one of the wings.  Cry  did the repair and letting the filler dry.
While getting the epoxy ready for my first epoxy glass attempt., found the measuring pump not working right. Got a lot of bad mixes tossed into the garbage  Angry Said the hell with epoxy and went with something familiar. started using wbp. First sides turned out ok. Tonight, the second sides rippled  Embarrassed looks like I used too much wbp.
Need to figure out if and how I can fix. I don't feel like replacing everything.
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Reply #52 - Feb 27th, 2018 at 10:45pm
 
Not laughing Marc....I feel the pain. We all get those times when nothing goes right. Step back. You'll recharge..
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Reply #53 - Mar 14th, 2018 at 6:20pm
 
Pictures show a curved hatch/fairing on the fuselage sides. I moved them forward a bit and using one for a cover for the access port to the needle valves. Securing them with magnets from old electric motors. Added a lip to ensure the cover catn't slide around.

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Reply #54 - Mar 14th, 2018 at 6:22pm
 

The guns are somewhat in the way of the top fuselage hatch. To simplify the removal, a hinge was added to the gun bases and more magnets used to keep the front secured. Guns now swing up out of the way of the hatch.
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Reply #55 - Mar 14th, 2018 at 6:27pm
 
Started installing the servos. Found the aileron pushrods too long so making new ones.
Tail feathers are in place without binding. That is a good start.
Still need to figure out where I am placing things.
Going to have to get a muffler soon and see what needs hacking out.
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Reply #56 - Mar 15th, 2018 at 1:08pm
 
Clever idea with the hinged guns. Looking very nice.
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Reply #57 - Mar 16th, 2018 at 5:31am
 
Wow Mark, When you said you need to step back was that code for a Olympic leap forward?  Grin Grin It's now painted and looking GREAT!  What a cool plane..
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Reply #58 - Mar 16th, 2018 at 5:47am
 
My "step back" last for the evening. Next night i started cutting out sections on the skin, adding filler to the spots 1mm or less and added fiberglass to the new wood. Spent a few days priming, sanding and filling, still looks like crap. But was worried about adding too much weight.

Hope to do the markings this weekend. Then add tank, rx and such.
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Reply #59 - Mar 18th, 2018 at 12:30pm
 
Wow, nice job, Mark..
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Reply #60 - Mar 18th, 2018 at 2:13pm
 
The outside is pretty much done. Still lots of internals to do.
Still no luck on muffler  Undecided
Tried to mimick the corrigation but didn't come out nearly as I wanted.
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Reply #61 - Mar 19th, 2018 at 5:58am
 
Gonna look great on a nice slow flyby. Great job.
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Reply #62 - Mar 19th, 2018 at 1:36pm
 
Very nice work Marc. Lots of Google ideas on the corrigation, but all seem heavy...
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Reply #63 - Mar 20th, 2018 at 12:37pm
 
Yes, i was worried about the wieght of the corrigation...and of beeds for repair.
My original idea was to run rope through some wood guids, then lay yhe evenly spread rope over the plane. Then a light mist of charcoal grey over it. The hope was a fade into the charcolal to simulate the deep points.
But rope would not sit straight, so i used painters tape and putting up with the sharp edges to the 'corrugation'.
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Reply #64 - May 6th, 2018 at 4:20pm
 
Finally received my muffler. Went with a slightly modified pitts from Jtec. Was unable to route the exhaust out the bottom, so will exit upwards. The enigine takes too much room Cry
Now I need to cut away part of the dummy engine and stuff so the cover will fit over.  Undecided
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Reply #65 - May 6th, 2018 at 5:29pm
 
Sucks when the engine gets in the way of the engine...
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Reply #66 - Jun 17th, 2018 at 4:38pm
 
Got a few pix of the maiden.
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