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Hanger 9 Sbach 342 with DLE20 (Read 22,954 times)
 
JackDD
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Show the link to this post Hanger 9 Sbach 342 with DLE20
Aug 14th, 2016 at 3:11pm
 
Hey guys, gonna be stuck at home for a couple of weeks so I ordered this baby to keep me busy..
http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/storefronts/almost-ready-to-fly/hangar-9-bra...

any help with the DLE20 installation would be appreciated Silly Aviator
http://www.dle-engines.com/dleg0020.html

Cool

should a 14oz fuel tank be sufficient, an what kind of flight time would this give me? Huh
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« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2016 at 3:17pm by JackDD »  
 
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Show the link to this post Re: Hanger 9 Sbach 342 with DLE20
Reply #1 - Aug 14th, 2016 at 3:29pm
 
I'm thinking a 2500ma 4.8v NiCd for the ignition Battery, with a standard Rx LiFe battery for the Rx and High torque servos.. Both I already have ...
Cool
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Show the link to this post Re: Hanger 9 Sbach 342 with DLE20
Reply #2 - Aug 14th, 2016 at 3:38pm
 
Don't know the flight times on that engine Jack, but I read the comments on the Hanger 9 site. Change the hardware  (clevises and tail  wheel) and make sure you wick some thick CS into every joint you can get to. Landing gear plate seems to be the usual "land 4 times it comes apart" item common with so many ARF's

Looks like a good plane..
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Show the link to this post Re: Hanger 9 Sbach 342 with DLE20
Reply #3 - Aug 14th, 2016 at 3:55pm
 
Jack, mount the engine like a regular glow engine. Take the ignition and wrap it in neoprene or foam, that's all it takes.
Mine runs so good it isn't funny. I would recommend a quick break in of a couple of heat / cool cycles, just a few minutes each run with a little extra oil (I think they recommend 20:1) and away you go.
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Show the link to this post Re: Hanger 9 Sbach 342 with DLE20
Reply #4 - Aug 14th, 2016 at 3:58pm
 
Also Jack, that engine you can run with a single life battery. run the ignition from i of the leads, and the Rx from another. 2200 LiFe will run all day.
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Reply #5 - Aug 14th, 2016 at 4:03pm
 
Hi Jack,

Nice to see you make the leap....
With gas power you will need to always consider vibration when installing your equipment.

- use blue loctite on all engine mounting hardware

-when using manual choke the pushrod comes out the front cowl (easiest way) or you can go with a servo to choke it.

-you will need a means to kill the ignition remotely ie; opti kill
  switch (electronic switch between ignition and RX) Thunderbolt
  sells them. This is a major safety consideration. Someday you
  will be Really Happy you have it.....

-make sure engine/oil mix as per manufacturer's instructions
  for break in.

-the cap/plug in the gas tank needs to be gas compatible.
confirm that it is. If not, Dubro  (brown) is gas comp.

-decide if you want a 2 or 3 line fuel system for the tank. If
  you choose 2 you will need a T fitting cut into the carb line for
  fuelling.

- You will need a fuel DOT. (fitting at the fuelling point).

-Separate battery pack for the ignition. Some guys use an IBEC
  which shares RX batts   some guys keep ignition batts
  separate from RX

-RTV silicone for muffler gasket. Fibre gasket promotes the
loosening of the mounting bolts. If loosens, re-tighten when
engine is hot. Use blue loctite as well

A rule of thumb on gas consumption is an ounce a minute. Of course this depends on how savage you get with the throttle.....

Of course there are other things but you will pick this up when flying with others at the field.

Have Fun......
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Reply #6 - Aug 15th, 2016 at 6:07am
 
Wow, thanks for the info guys, definitely going to use two batteries and will get the engine kill switch.
Sandy I also read the RCGroups thread and will beef up all the bad spots, tail wheel is also a problem.

Glen, I suppose the insulation is for the vibration good point, also have ordered a metal engine mount .

Dan, do you use the silicone instead of the gasget? Will go with the 3 line fuel tank and already have the the gas stopper...

I'll keep you posted
Smiley Cool
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Reply #7 - Aug 15th, 2016 at 4:47pm
 
Sorry Jack, yes the RTV silicone replaces the gasket.
Do not use the fibre gasket.
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Reply #8 - Aug 15th, 2016 at 5:47pm
 
Smiley WEEEEE
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Reply #9 - Aug 17th, 2016 at 3:06pm
 
Oyea oyea oyea Cheesy Cool
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Reply #10 - Aug 17th, 2016 at 4:21pm
 
. Smiley
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Reply #11 - Aug 19th, 2016 at 10:26am
 
Some beefing up with gorilla glue...
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Reply #12 - Aug 19th, 2016 at 10:27am
 
Ailerons already glued in Grin thanks Hanger 9...
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Reply #13 - Aug 19th, 2016 at 10:29am
 
finishing Gorilla process now on to Varnish, actually some already applied, but more would be better...
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Reply #14 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 10:46am
 
Here's the first question, should I file out the engine mount so as to line up with existing holes, need about a 1/4' or drill new engine mount holes with a new firewall piece of plywood?
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Reply #15 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 2:25pm
 
Whenever pre-drilled holes don't line up with your own mount it's a practice for many to epoxy in dowels into unused holes and drill new one's that do line up with your mount.
Unless I'm mistaken, I think that's the point of your question....
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Reply #16 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 4:13pm
 
Very Diplomatic of you Dan... Roll Eyes yes your right,  Smiley there is way to much difference in the mounts to do this
Any other way Wink
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Reply #17 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 5:02pm
 
Way to go Jack.  Here I am fussing on the sidelines about converting to gas; perhaps I need to take a page from your book and just do it.

I've been reading about the DLE 20; it gets good reviews. 

Question....where do the guns go????
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Reply #18 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 9:44am
 
Yes Mike, I have the right engine and a beautiful plane, but the engine mounts are a problem..
Glen what engine mount did you use to install your motors?

The cowl clearance is 5.5" and the engine length is greater than that Shocked Sad
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Reply #19 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 11:10am
 
One way to address that Jack is to cut an opening in the firewall large enough to take the engine and mounts. Make a plywood spacer ( hollow ring/hollow rectangle) around the hole thick enough to go inside deep enough to give you the clearance, and put a new fire wall on the BACK of the spacer. When the engine is mounted on this firewall it will stick out less.... Huh Sign
don't know if that makes any sense at all....
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Reply #20 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 1:16pm
 
Jack, this model is designed around their (Hangar 9) Evolution engines. Their carburetors are at the front of their gas engines just like the glow fuel engines.
With the DL as you obviously know the back mounting makes them too long for the design of the mounting system.

You haven't mentioned by how much the engine is too long.....

From what I can see, there is no way to mount the DL unless you consider Sandy's suggestion or a variation of that.

Can you post a pic of the inside of the firewall area so we can see what is behind it?

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Reply #21 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 2:46pm
 
Thanks sandy, I was a bit premature with the angst, after a talk with mark, it became clearer, and with the info from Dan, I do have enough clearance...
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Reply #22 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 3:01pm
 
Sorry I'm so slow responding Jack, I was out at the camp all weekend.
It doesn't matter which mount you use Jack, but don't forget you want to have the prop hub set to whatever distance from the firewall the instructions call for so the cowl will fit properly.

I've cut mounts a little to make them shorter or put plywood "shims" behind them to lengthen them to get the desired distance.
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Reply #23 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 5:27pm
 
Thanks Glen, I did manage to use the kit supplied mount but did grind off some material so that the carb would fit and be clear at the rear, also managed to keep the desired firewall cowl length to  within a 1/4"
The cowl is pre drilled so will adjust the 1/4" there.. Cool

This turned out to be a lot easier with the info from Dan and Mark...
Thanks guys...

Now the tail wheel Shocked Huh
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Reply #24 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 5:37pm
 
This is not an option for a 10lb model, what are they thinking Roll Eyes
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Reply #25 - Aug 22nd, 2016 at 2:26pm
 
I seem to have missed a step... Roll Eyes Cheesy


Wow, seems like the engine was simple after all, but what a Beautiful job Hanger 9 has done with this arf..
This was made for me....

now where are those servos.. Cool
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Reply #26 - Aug 22nd, 2016 at 3:08pm
 
Looking real nice Jack! Smiley
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Reply #27 - Aug 22nd, 2016 at 3:13pm
 
Very nice Jack.....very nice.
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Reply #28 - Aug 22nd, 2016 at 5:34pm
 
Come on Mike, come to the Dark side.... WEEEEE
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Reply #29 - Aug 23rd, 2016 at 2:02pm
 
Some more detail of the cowl mounting, that green on the prop spinner is just reflection paint is still there.
I think I will drill another access hole for the muffler bolts, past experience... Roll Eyes

anything else I'm missing there?
Got some more pointers from Dan will follow them all, have the carb spring and idle bolts out already, as per Dans advice...
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Reply #30 - Aug 23rd, 2016 at 2:56pm
 
Jack, remember do not remove the spring just trip the small wire tip off the cam arm. Leave the spring intact and on the shaft it keeps tension on the throttle shaft and not on the open close movement.

You won't be able to see the throttle movement very well as the carb is mounted close to the firewall so, ensure your throttle servo is moving correctly. Open is open and close is closed.
Some radios often need the throttle servo channel reversed  to match the correct carburetor movement. 

hope this is helpful.
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Reply #31 - Aug 23rd, 2016 at 3:01pm
 
Yes that's all I did, just released the spring off the arm...
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Reply #32 - Aug 23rd, 2016 at 3:04pm
 
Looking good Jack, even with Dan's help
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