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HurricaneMkII (Read 310,761 times)
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Show the link to this post HurricaneMkII
Dec 23rd, 2012 at 11:33am
 
OK guys, here we go, slowly, deathly slowly, snore  Roll Eyes

Lots of wood to cut out, lots of room to do stuff like cockpit, Vailly has detailed instructions on scale hinging, so I think (hope) it'll be fun....

Let the ragging begin  Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
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Reply #1 - Jan 9th, 2013 at 10:30am
 
I took the plans (3 sheets roughly 4x10 each)  to Chris's Kwik Kopy in Burnside. I didn't want to cut up all 3 sheets to get templates of the 50 odd pieces I need to cut out, so his shop made a copy of the drawings.  Super job and very well priced.  Smiley

I'm going to double everything up - need a former #6, so I'll cut 2 of them; need 2 rib #15's so I'll make 4. Once I'm done I'll have 2 kits...  Wink

I understand there's a learning curve for scroll saws so I bought a package of 36 blades  Tongue Should get me through the fuse formers at least...
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Reply #2 - Jan 9th, 2013 at 11:10am
 
Let me be the First, to Congratulate (Rag) you on this fine choice of kit...(where's the pics?)
The 2 pages of Kit specs, are impressive... Roll Eyes certainly takes me back to the old Technical Drawing workshop at Cosford, where everything was hand drawn then Blue copied.. Sad
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Reply #3 - Jan 9th, 2013 at 3:44pm
 
JackDD wrote on Jan 9th, 2013 at 11:10am:
Let me be the First, to Congratulate (Rag) you on this fine choice of kit...(where's the pics?)
The 2 pages of Kit specs, are impressive... Roll Eyes certainly takes me back to the old Technical Drawing workshop at Cosford, where everything was hand drawn then Blue copied.. Sad


pics will be posted as they occur!!! Still in the accumulate stuff stage..

Yeh, I did that hand draw then print on blue... back in my draftsman days..
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Reply #4 - Jan 9th, 2013 at 7:47pm
 
Very cool Sandy,

Looking forward to seeing it come together...

Brian
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Reply #5 - Jan 9th, 2013 at 10:00pm
 
Brian wrote on Jan 9th, 2013 at 7:47pm:
Very cool Sandy,

Looking forward to seeing it come together...

Brian

I don't know if I'll live that long! Grin Grin
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Reply #6 - Jan 9th, 2013 at 10:30pm
 

30 to 39 oz/sq ft of wing loading.  It should turn out just fine.   

Post lots of pictures  Smiley

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Reply #7 - Jan 10th, 2013 at 10:34am
 
Yak Man wrote on Jan 9th, 2013 at 10:00pm:
Brian wrote on Jan 9th, 2013 at 7:47pm:
Very cool Sandy,

Looking forward to seeing it come together...

Brian

I don't know if I'll live that long! Grin Grin


sure you will, you're still a youngish old man...
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Reply #8 - Jan 10th, 2013 at 12:02pm
 
OMG
Sierra retracts for this thing are $550.00  Shocked. Right some nice thingys, and Robart don't list a compatible set....... Cry

I suppose fixed gear would look poopy..
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Reply #9 - Jan 10th, 2013 at 4:47pm
 
Ouch!
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Reply #10 - Jan 10th, 2013 at 9:32pm
 
Sorry Finger's you're right, you need to but the sierra's, because they have the right amount of "twist" in them to drop in the stock locations and be lined up correctly when in the up and down positions.

If you ask real nice I'll let you look at mine, maybe you could fabricate/ modify a set of robart or others to work
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« Last Edit: Jan 10th, 2013 at 9:36pm by Glen »  
 
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Reply #11 - Jan 12th, 2013 at 7:06pm
 
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Reply #12 - Jan 12th, 2013 at 9:01pm
 
Now how do I make mine sound like that ??????
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Reply #13 - Jan 13th, 2013 at 12:23pm
 
darn, kinda tough to make a single cylinder sound like 12 of 'em.... Cry

OK Cool - put your mill to work and design and make us some scale Merlins.... shouldn't be too hard, you being a car nut and machinist extraordinaire.....
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Reply #14 - Jan 13th, 2013 at 3:24pm
 
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« Last Edit: Jan 13th, 2013 at 3:28pm by Glen »  
 
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Reply #15 - Jan 13th, 2013 at 4:01pm
 
well, not a 12 - only an 8, and only turns 4800

but -  Smiley

and I read I need a bit of nose weight......  Smiley
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Reply #16 - Jan 13th, 2013 at 6:57pm
 
Glen, are you going to get 1? Roll Eyes
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Reply #17 - Jan 14th, 2013 at 10:02am
 
I remember reading about a guy that had designed something similar in Model Airplane News.

I don't think this is the guy because I thought he was Canadian but it's another website

http://www.artus-motor.com/en/artus-v12-motor/

Oh and Sandy this is a 12.  No excuses you have to buy now   Grin

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« Last Edit: Jan 14th, 2013 at 10:03am by Ben Lann »  
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Reply #18 - Jan 14th, 2013 at 3:45pm
 
yuppper - had my cheque book out and realized the 3 blade was 30x16....... bit too big for the Valley Hurri... Cry
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Reply #19 - Jan 15th, 2013 at 9:42am
 
haha details details  Grin
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Reply #20 - Jan 15th, 2013 at 10:52am
 
probly  be some torque roll as well  Cheesy
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Reply #21 - Jan 15th, 2013 at 1:02pm
 
Slighty off topic but I just noticed the mood drop down.

I am feeling SEXY lol
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Reply #22 - Jan 15th, 2013 at 1:42pm
 
well, you don't do much for me, but


Whateverrrrr
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Reply #23 - Jan 16th, 2013 at 2:22pm
 
lol
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Reply #24 - Feb 3rd, 2013 at 12:27pm
 
all right then - to business...... Cheesy

plans call for the firewall being 3/4 plywood  Shocked.... I asked Vaillencourt about that since the design is from the '80's back when big gassers were kinda rough.. He said that the firewall could be a lot lighter since todays 50's were a lot smoother than the Quadra 50 the plan is designed for, but the plane needs a lot of nose weight anyway..

So, might as well use thick wood which helps absorb what vibration there is... Wink better than couple pounds of lead and stuff..

I rough cut 2 firewalls, then using the engine mount template I screwed them together and used my belt sander to smooth the profile....

Now I'm cutting 1/8" x 1/4" notches (only 52 in the firewall  Undecided) - likely be a while  Grin
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Reply #25 - Feb 3rd, 2013 at 12:49pm
 
Ohhhhh!!! Someone needs a bandsaw for their Birthday!!!!

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Reply #26 - Feb 3rd, 2013 at 1:22pm
 
Ha! don't say I didn't warn you . Grin
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Reply #27 - Feb 4th, 2013 at 1:09pm
 
Well, here's the first piece (x2). If it weren't for the help of my little buddy there I'm not sure I would have got as much done as I did... Wink
Just for reference, the new fire wall is 8" wide by 10 1/2 long, compared to the 5 x 7 1/2 for the ESM. I put the two cowls in there for comparison - the ESM cowl overlaps the firewall by quite a bit while the Vailly fits flush to the FW.
Some where along the build the cowl gets cut for the exhaust stubs to be installed..
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Reply #28 - Mar 5th, 2013 at 10:25am
 
hmmmmmm, Sierra retracts have arrived - the 15 deg rotate is a cam built onto the top of the strut, with a groove cut into the inside of the "box". The cam runs in the groove and turns 15 deg as the gear closes.... super, and looks pretty strong (which it will have to be, I Know, I know  Wink)

only one former to go  Undecided
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Reply #29 - Mar 5th, 2013 at 4:01pm
 
Fingers wrote on Mar 5th, 2013 at 10:25am:
hmmmmmm, Sierra retracts have arrived - the 15 deg rotate



Well!!!  Lets see some pictures of the retracts.  And make them good!!  Angry Angry
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Reply #30 - Mar 5th, 2013 at 4:53pm
 
had to fit this in a break
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Reply #31 - Mar 5th, 2013 at 6:12pm
 
Niice!!  Good Pics.  Smiley
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Reply #32 - Mar 6th, 2013 at 10:07am
 
all right boys and girls....finally, something to post.  Smiley (try to keep the applause down) Finished the formers last night, so here is a fuselage short kit.
You can see the formers are notched to fit over the crutch, which will be the 2 long sticks laying on the bottom of the pic. They are 56" long and will sit on a jig with uprights at each former. With everything centered, and clamped, hopefully things will go together moderately straight. "Things going together" interprets to mean 1/8 x 1/2 balsa strips will be laid in the notches, front to back.
The 2 panels are wing saddles and are glued to the crutches, running from the firewall to former 8, also fitting in notches in the formers.
Each former slot took at least 3 cuts - one down the center, one down either side, then slide side to clear the slot...since there are something like 356 slots (count 'em Glen to check for sure) Cheesy, that's 356 x .....carry the 7, divide by 2.4 - something over 1000 cuts.  Tongue
In all this I only broke 1 saw blade  Angry.
The crutch sticks started as a 56" long piece of 1x3 kiln dried pine. Would have been easier if I had a table saw, but eventually wound up with a bunch of 1/4 x 1/2 pine sticks, quite a few dull #11 Xacto blades and a lot of tooth picks.

So material consumption so far is 7 sheets of 1x4 lite ply (1/8); chunk of 3/4 ply, chunk of 3/8 ply, and chunk of 1/2 ply. Of course I made a copy of all this stuff, so I do have a second fuse kit, set aside for future use. And by the way, these results are called a short kit, I guess because we're short the rest of the wood to actually make a fuselage.

Resulting from these efforts, I also have leftover 2'x2' pieces of 3/4 ply, 3/8 ply, 1/2 ply, and a massive pile of scrap 1/8 ply......I will sell that at a very good price.......let's call it a pigmy kit, or dwarf kit... Grin
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Reply #33 - Mar 6th, 2013 at 7:25pm
 
Nice. This working with wood thing is a nice change to the ARF. I think my next sport jet will be a kit...
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Reply #34 - Mar 6th, 2013 at 7:53pm
 
Danster wrote on Mar 6th, 2013 at 7:25pm:
Nice. This working with wood thing is a nice change to the ARF. I think my next sport jet will be a kit...



I agree Dan. Pleasant to be working with saw dust in the nose and eyes again, while trying to keep the fingers out of the saw blade..

Now, before I can build, I have to build the jig.. Embarrassed
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Reply #35 - Mar 7th, 2013 at 6:51am
 
Nice gear... Smiley and your parts look great, very good job cutting then out!  Want to do mine? Roll Eyes
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Reply #36 - Mar 7th, 2013 at 9:38am
 
Yak Man wrote on Mar 7th, 2013 at 6:51am:
Nice gear... Smiley and your parts look great, very good job cutting then out!  Want to do mine? Roll Eyes



second kit is already there (partially)..... Cool  since it's been made known that Glennie already has 2 of these beasts, my lawyer is in the process of changing my willie.....
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Reply #37 - Mar 7th, 2013 at 9:38pm
 
Hey, you can never have too many hurricanes , just ask Winston Churchill . Grin
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Reply #38 - Mar 9th, 2013 at 8:23pm
 
Glen wrote on Mar 7th, 2013 at 9:38pm:
Hey, you can never have too many hurricanes , just ask Winston Churchill . Grin




Cheesy Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin

yeh, but ask Goering
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Reply #39 - Mar 13th, 2013 at 3:43pm
 
Quote:
Hey, you can never have too many hurricanes


That may be ok for you guys who happen to live inland, but along the coast 1 is more than enough at a time, thank you (Juan, Noel,...) Angry
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Reply #40 - Mar 13th, 2013 at 3:59pm
 
argus wrote on Mar 13th, 2013 at 3:43pm:
Quote:
Hey, you can never have too many hurricanes


That may be ok for you guys who happen to live inland, but along the coast 1 is more than enough at a time, thank you (Juan, Noel,...) Angry



hey!!  Juan came right up my street thank you very much  Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Angry
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Reply #41 - Mar 13th, 2013 at 4:11pm
 
But, was he in your house, like he was in mine? Sad
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Reply #42 - Mar 14th, 2013 at 3:55pm
 
mmmmmm, I usually try to give high tide a 100 ft leeway, that's vertical not horizontal  Angry can't trust that damn ocean thingy..
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Reply #43 - Apr 1st, 2013 at 7:11pm
 
behold the flowing lines of a Hurricane fuselage!!! Wait, something missing  Wink I talked to a few people who felt that some of you have no idea what I meant by building the fuse on a jig - even after I put out the photos of the formers all cut out. With all the ARF's out there some have never seen construction.
Here are all of the formers placed on the crutch pieces, up on the jig. The jig is about 2 inches higher than it has to be - only has to high enough to support the fuse off the table enough to get under it a bit. For some reason the 3rd picture only opens in "image ready" and the psd files I have on my computer won't open at all.
With the formers clamped in place, I'll spend as much time as I have to to get everything lined up so the stringers are straight once i start gluing them in... with the back end covered in fabric there'll be no hiding a wonky stringer... and yes, i am using the laser... Grin
Actually, at this point I find I buggered the jig for the front 6 formers - forgot the inset for the wing saddles to be glued to the crutch and inset in the formers....I'll get those jig parts fixed and be back...  I did say up front it was going to be a long build.. Undecided
The 1/2 former is the back of the cockpit, and the former on the right is the dash/front....about 6" in front of that will be a "wing hold down former", then the firewall, but have to back and fix things before putting them on..
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Reply #44 - Apr 1st, 2013 at 9:06pm
 
Looking real good Sandy.
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Reply #45 - Apr 6th, 2013 at 6:38am
 
Yes it does look like your coming along.
When it's done you could make a book case for your RC rags
out of the jig! Double good! Cheesy
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Reply #46 - Apr 6th, 2013 at 8:19pm
 
finally, something glued....put the wing saddles on the crutches - as you can maybe see the saddles is notched, so hopefully the formers 3 - 8 will be forced into alignment by the saddles, making the rest of the fuse straight.....oh I do have silly dreams... Egyptian Dancer
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Reply #47 - Apr 6th, 2013 at 8:33pm
 
And, firewall and former 3 now in place ( had to be there first and rest of formers loaded from the back, this done all off the jig )....once the formers were all there, along with the firewall, THEN I could put everything back on the jig.

I think former 10 is a bit too far to the front - would make the stringers not flow right....before I glue anymore I'll have to check that pretty carefully...

Once that is done, THEN the laser comes into play to try and ensure  Violin Whine everything lines up... for example, just sitting there former 4 is bent/warped/twisted  Smiley but  a few stringers will jam it into place.. Time to Build
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Reply #48 - Apr 6th, 2013 at 8:38pm
 
Yak Man wrote on Apr 6th, 2013 at 6:38am:
Yes it does look like your coming along.
When it's done you could make a book case for your RC rags
out of the jig! Double good! Cheesy



yupper, just sit it on a shelf and pile the MAN's into it - should hold about 2 years worth.. Cheesy
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Reply #49 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 7:48pm
 
all righty now.... need some help from you arithmetically inclined guys... like engineeeers and such (my math is limited to pie are round and cake are square (unless we're talking about the trajectory of a 170 gm .30 cal slug leaving the barrel at 2400cfm........) naw lets not go there)

This plane is reputed to build quite tail heavy, so part of my project is to keep as much weight off the tail as I can....SO; the plans call for spruce stringers, all 54 of them....

from cg back to tail is                  46"
from cg forward to firewall is            8.5"      - a ratio of  5.411  to 1

I weighed stringers of both spruce and balsa, pivoting them from a 46" spot to a scale and got

spruce stringer on scale                  9.5      gms            0.33509oz           0.02094      lb
balsa stringer on scale                  2      gms            0.07054oz           0.00440      lb
THEN
54 spruce stringers                  1.130976 lb            on the scale                  
54 balsa stringers                          0.238086 lb            on the scale      

So it seems to me I have a ratio of 5.41 to balance this weight at the firewall, which would be...            

spruce stringers need                  1.130976      x 5.411"      6.119711136  lb to balance
balsa stringers need                  0.238086      x 5.411"      1.288283346  lb to balance

So this tells me that using balsa can save almost 5 pounds of nose weight..... am I correct or what am I missing????  Help Me Anyone
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Reply #50 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 8:27pm
 
Huh Sign

1.130976 x^-5.411y^10 over x0.238086^-5.411(-3x^-3y^-1)^-2 =5.0341

Looks right to me, but the real math question is  how much strength are you giving up with just balsa stringers?  Maybe a combination of them will be the ticket. 

Just a though
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Reply #51 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 8:54pm
 
Thanks

I was thinking several cages of "X'ed" CF rod between some formers would add a lot of torsional strength without much weight... man that 5 or so pounds is sure inviting.... Huh
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Reply #52 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 9:00pm
 
Sandy, thought about that one myself a while back. Stuck with spruce since it is structural, not just scale dressing.
Anybody want to do the math on what the torsional loading would be on the tail at say 80 mph with full elevator deflection ?
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Reply #53 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 9:23pm
 
I played with the numbers and came up with 4.83 pounds saved.  So either we are all wrong or your analysis is generally correct.  That said, I agree with Al; I wouldn't weaken the fuse too much.  I seem to recall reading something about the Me 109F or G where the tail section fell off during high speed maneuvers due to a weak empennage.  The solution in that case was to add two stiffeners to both side of the fuse just forward of the tail; ugly but it seemed to work. (I wish I could remember where I read that???)

In your case perhaps a mixture of balsa and spruce as Al suggested, and possibly some carbon fibre strips along the balsa stringers to address the tension component of the loads.  Torsional and compression loads will require a little more thought. A geodesic structure would probably work just fine....but then your Hurricane would look like a Wellington Bomber...not good!

Just thinking out loud.


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Reply #54 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 9:30pm
 
How do you edit a post on this forum?  It seems to me that at one time there was an 'edit' button?
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Reply #55 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 9:53pm
 
MkIX wrote on Apr 16th, 2013 at 9:30pm:
How do you edit a post on this forum?It seems to me that at one time there was an 'edit' button? 



Hi Mike:  If you can not see your modify button, then you need to update your session.  You will see a Tab on top of the forum that states "Update Session".  Just click on it. You may have to enter your password. It happens because your  IP address changed since you were last online and the system wants to make sure it's you.

Bruce
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Reply #56 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 10:02pm
 
Excellent!  That worked like a treat.

My IP does change every now and then...just to keep me off balance I think.

Thanks, Bruce.
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Reply #57 - Apr 17th, 2013 at 8:21am
 


thanks guys..... if I split the spruce and balsa half and half I save 2.4 pounds, and so the ratios go on and on and on.... thinkin'

best idea I've heard is spruce on the top 3 stringers, at #15 either side and then along the bottom for hanger rash. That will pretty well split it up harf and harf, saving 2 pounds and a smiggeon.  Cheers Pig Smiley
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Reply #58 - Apr 29th, 2013 at 1:23pm
 
Hey Fingers, check this out, guess my email's finally worked.

http://www.dbalsa.com/cockpits/v-hurricane.htm
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Reply #59 - Apr 29th, 2013 at 2:02pm
 
Glen wrote on Apr 29th, 2013 at 1:23pm:
Hey Fingers, check this out, guess my email's finally worked.

http://www.dbalsa.com/cockpits/v-hurricane.htm



yeh, I have that site bookmarked Glen.....but $225 just for a cockpit  Sick Gimpy  I've owned planes that didn't cost that much   Hit Palm
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Reply #60 - Aug 26th, 2013 at 6:53pm
 
Well, finally the neighbour with the table saw got my stringers cut - from clear pine  Smiley

Now the good news; up above some where I noted that the spruce stringer weighed 9.5 gms each on the pivot scale I set up. Well the pine only weights 7gm on the same 46 inch pivot  Rock Rock

So all 54 pine stringers will weigh .83119 lb at the tail, a savings of .306 lbs at the tail. AND, with my nose to tail ratio of 5.411,  an additional 1.655 lb to balance at the nose...total weight savings of 1.961 lb.  Huh Sign

So without doing anything I've built almost 2 lb "off" the final weight  Canada Flag Lets Party Canada Flag

Gotta love it when something seems to work out... Angry
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Reply #61 - Aug 26th, 2013 at 7:15pm
 
Smiley Smiley Smiley Looking good, Sandy!
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Reply #62 - Aug 27th, 2013 at 7:42pm
 
Well, starting the stringers  Angry all 54 of 'em! After the top center one is in, everything else is pairs.... don't know if it's visible on the front view, but there is a line up mark on the table under the firewall, and I'm also lined up with a seam on the wall behind (actually the picture is slightly to one side)... so place a pair of stringers on...check the alignment, glue the front 2 formers, check the alignment, glue 2 more...and etc... Wall Bash

In front of the sloping "head rest former" on top there should be a solid sheet, but I'm going to put in a cockpit  Naaah so I'm doubling up the stringers along there to hopefully reinforce things enough.
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Reply #63 - Aug 28th, 2013 at 10:18am
 
I heard that some Chinese ARF manufacturers visited this site.  apparently their screams were heard in Vietnam and elsewhere.  Rumor has it they are going to double the weight of their ARFs ( in a vein attempt to introduce quality and precision.
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Reply #64 - Aug 28th, 2013 at 10:30am
 
over the years lots of screams have been heard in Viet Nam... no one cared  Angry

Brian, I've spent a lot  Violin Whine of time trying to figure out how to build this thing lighter but no joy Angry   Massive firewall, but I need the weight to balance the tail  Beating A Dead Horse Various versions have been reported from 22 pounds to 35 pounds  Anyone

I hope to hit the 25 lb mark - might be achievable because some of the '80s building techniques are "heavy", but there seem to be practical limits to how much can be taken off... Cry
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Reply #65 - Aug 28th, 2013 at 10:32am
 
waverider wrote on Aug 28th, 2013 at 10:18am:
( in a vein attempt to introduce quality and precision.



I'd like to introduce some quality and precision, but it is me we're talking about here  Thanks
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Reply #66 - Aug 29th, 2013 at 9:43pm
 
Fingers wrote on Aug 28th, 2013 at 10:30am:
over the years lots of screams have been heard in Viet Nam... no one cared  Angry

Brian, I've spent a lot  Violin Whine of time trying to figure out how to build this thing lighter but no joy Angry   Massive firewall, but I need the weight to balance the tail  Beating A Dead Horse Various versions have been reported from 22 pounds to 35 pounds  Anyone

I hope to hit the 25 lb mark - might be achievable because some of the '80s building techniques are "heavy", but there seem to be practical limits to how much can be taken off... Cry



I was trying to indicate what a great job you are doing.

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Reply #67 - Aug 29th, 2013 at 10:25pm
 
waverider wrote on Aug 29th, 2013 at 9:43pm:
I was trying to indicate what a great job you are doing.



Nah, don't do that Brian.  You know how all that praise goes to Finger's head.  Grin Grin Grin  Bow to the Master
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Reply #68 - Aug 30th, 2013 at 11:01am
 
waverider wrote on Aug 29th, 2013 at 9:43pm:
Fingers wrote on Aug 28th, 2013 at 10:30am:
over the years lots of screams have been heard in Viet Nam... no one cared  Angry

Brian, I've spent a lot  Violin Whine of time trying to figure out how to build this thing lighter but no joy Angry   Massive firewall, but I need the weight to balance the tail  Beating A Dead Horse Various versions have been reported from 22 pounds to 35 pounds  Anyone

I hope to hit the 25 lb mark - might be achievable because some of the '80s building techniques are "heavy", but there seem to be practical limits to how much can be taken off... Cry



I was trying to indicate what a great job you are doing.




wasn't flaming you Brian... if I could combine precision and quality, AND lighten the 4kn thing up, I'D be selling plans for it.... frustrating to have this great looking planform, and know that weight thingy is always there.... Time to Build
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Reply #69 - Aug 30th, 2013 at 11:02am
 
administrator wrote on Aug 29th, 2013 at 10:25pm:
waverider wrote on Aug 29th, 2013 at 9:43pm:
I was trying to indicate what a great job you are doing.



Nah, don't do that Brian.  You know how all that praise goes to Finger's head.  Grin Grin Grin  Bow to the Master



praise me, c'mon praise me.... just a little eh? C'mon ya buggers.. Lets Go Fun Bat What Was That
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Reply #70 - Sep 8th, 2013 at 3:21pm
 
and every once in a while I like to pop the cowl on and dream a bit.. Thinking

something else I'm doing a bit different...plans call for the stringers to be 1/8 x 1/4, which makes them flush with the edges of the formers - then once the sheeting is on the front and under the tail tack a 1/8 square balsa strip on each stringer make them flush with the new sheeting to give that "stringer" look..what I'm doing, is making the stringers 1/8 x 3/8. I put them on, mark where the sheeting will end, then I'm stripping each stringer back to the 1/4..
they fit flush up front, but present as stringers along the back sides...  Huh Sign  That's about as clear as mud isn't it...

If you look closely, you can see the notched stringers starting at former 7, the second of the half formers..in pic 1, right above the battery pack sitting on the table..
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Reply #71 - Sep 8th, 2013 at 8:47pm
 
lookin good sandy, you can even see the hurri lines showing up.  they didn't get that way in a hurri though.

and that little battery won't cut it.  jon's 109 will be chewing on the tail feathers.  Grin
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Reply #72 - Sep 9th, 2013 at 6:33pm
 
doubt if that pack would even spin the prop - probably something like a 22x10 3 blade is scale...that I'll get figured in about 2 years...
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Reply #73 - Sep 9th, 2013 at 8:37pm
 
did you see the atv news tonight?  a full scale hurricane from vintage wings is in saint john for a ceremony there in the morning honoring nb floors killed during ww2.  great looking airplane and if I was a bit younger I'd drive up to see it.
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Reply #74 - Sep 10th, 2013 at 8:11am
 
that would be sweet, and if I wasn't having a colon thingy tomorrow  Margaree Night I'd thnk about going....
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Reply #75 - Sep 10th, 2013 at 10:02am
 
Quote:
nb floors killed during ww2


Yes Al, how many nb floors were killed during WWII? Huh  Grin Grin
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Reply #76 - Sep 10th, 2013 at 10:41am
 
that's what you get when you type on a tablet with auto correct.  Grin
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Reply #77 - Sep 10th, 2013 at 11:18am
 
now you sea, Eye was just two polite to point that oat...  Grin
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Reply #78 - Nov 13th, 2013 at 11:41am
 
I know it's wayyyy early  What Was That, but looking for source of 1/5 scale WWII British pilot figure......with that I can monkey around with a cockpit while I carve stringers.... Gossip
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Reply #79 - Dec 2nd, 2013 at 10:41am
 
and since the reply to the request for a pilot received such overwhelming response, I'm also looking for some carbon fibre cloth....

want to make a frame for the canopy so I can maybe make it openable (opener, decloser, sliderabile)
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Reply #80 - Dec 2nd, 2013 at 2:19pm
 
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-29-World-war-ii-british-pilots-pilot-caltek-12-...

If you weren't stoned all the time you could probably find this on your own  Grin

P.S. Thunderbolt rc has a carbon fibre sale today.
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Reply #81 - Dec 2nd, 2013 at 2:35pm
 
Well, he could write about the search.  Grin

And add it to Wikipedia.  Grin
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Reply #82 - Dec 3rd, 2013 at 12:14pm
 
am stoned, but took a good look at this pilot - geeez there's even 6 bullets for his Webley....but can't find a size anywhere.....need about 13 or 14 inch pilot for scale....


and the Thunderbolt sale is for carbon fiber sheet and rods and stuff - I was looking for cloth..
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Reply #83 - Dec 3rd, 2013 at 9:21pm
 
The pilot's a 12 inch, should fit the bill for your application. I've got a BBI 12 inch pilot for mine, looks good.
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Reply #84 - Dec 4th, 2013 at 1:29am
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 3rd, 2013 at 12:14pm:
...and the Thunderbolt sale is for carbon fiber sheet and rods and stuff - I was looking for cloth..


try hobbyking
i bought some about a year ago
they could stuff an envelope with it
should be a cheap ship

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Reply #85 - Dec 4th, 2013 at 6:24am
 
Great Hobbies is have a big sale on CST composites this weekend. There's a good chance they will have what your looking for.  non-purple

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Reply #86 - Dec 4th, 2013 at 9:31am
 
Glen wrote on Dec 3rd, 2013 at 9:21pm:
The pilot's a 12 inch, should fit the bill for your application. I've got a BBI 12 inch pilot for mine, looks good.



Looked at BBI.  They have a nice Desert campaign pilot, but I guess I'm too old for that web site...couldn't get past the expanded photo, with the "decommissioned" button...

And thank you Cool Man..... done

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Reply #87 - Dec 4th, 2013 at 5:22pm
 
You're right, the desert pilot is nice, I have one right here on my desk. The down side is they stopped making it a year or two ago, so you have to go to evilbay or a collector to find one. They also did a battle of britan pilot as one of the first in the series, don't ask what they go for now that they've been out of production for 4-5 years.
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Reply #88 - Dec 4th, 2013 at 6:36pm
 
I just got one off E-bay for about 70$ at the door for my spit.
It's the battle of Britain one. Roll Eyes
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Reply #89 - Dec 5th, 2013 at 11:18am
 
The BBI one ?
You're lucky, the usually run about $200 now
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Reply #90 - Dec 5th, 2013 at 12:36pm
 
Could be, I seen it so I grabbed it. Smiley
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Reply #91 - Dec 5th, 2013 at 3:14pm
 
last time i used that excuse I got slapped  Lets Go Fun Bat
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Reply #92 - Dec 6th, 2013 at 10:11pm
 
I know where there's a BBI North Africa campaign British pilot but the guy won't let it go.....he's a clarinet player in a school band or something  Not Listening, has no interest in airplanes, but  Wall Bash

so I'll just check the evilBay daily..... Angry
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Reply #93 - Dec 7th, 2013 at 5:56pm
 
I might know where there's another one. A pilot buddy of mine had a few including the brit. I'll ask him if he still has them.
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Reply #94 - Dec 7th, 2013 at 8:22pm
 
Have I  told you lately how much I like you Glen????  Smiley

Course, at my rate of "build", won't need a pilot for 5 years or so...just thought it would be nice to have it so i could muddle with the cockpit as I wander along....
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Reply #95 - Dec 7th, 2013 at 8:27pm
 
Off topic on topic.....one of the problems guys seem to have with this plane is getting it to flare on landing... Angry   Since I'm hardly going to be invited to Top Gun with it   Violin Whine  I'd given some thought to enlarging the tail stuff....

Opinions please -  Anyone   would it be better to increase the span of the tail, or increase the chord??  Just askin'



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Reply #96 - Dec 7th, 2013 at 9:13pm
 
Both.
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Reply #97 - Dec 8th, 2013 at 4:26am
 
try to keep the tail aspect ratio the same otherwise you may enter tail buffet in high g manoevers with consequest tailplane stall
try to keep the AR around 6 at the tail

dont know what it is now
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Reply #98 - Dec 8th, 2013 at 12:03pm
 
waverider wrote on Dec 8th, 2013 at 4:26am:
try to keep the tail aspect ratio the same otherwise you may enter tail buffet in high g manoevers with consequest tailplane stall
try to keep the AR around 6 at the tail

dont know what it is now



well, the plans show the span of the horizontal stab at 25" and the chord varies from 7.5" to 9.5".....so the AR varies around 3 and a bit.. ("and a bit" is a British term used in a lot of their aircraft designs")

This isn't even close to Brian's AR of 6. So what am i measuring wrong..





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Reply #99 - Dec 8th, 2013 at 4:23pm
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 8th, 2013 at 12:03pm:
waverider wrote on Dec 8th, 2013 at 4:26am:
try to keep the tail aspect ratio the same otherwise you may enter tail buffet in high g manoevers with consequest tailplane stall
try to keep the AR around 6 at the tail

dont know what it is now



well, the plans show the span of the horizontal stab at 25" and the chord varies from 7.5" to 9.5".....so the AR varies around 3 and a bit.. ("and a bit" is a British term used in a lot of their aircraft designs"

This isn't even close to Brian's AR of 6. So what am i measuring wrong..



Your AR of 3 is fine it is less than 6

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Reply #100 - Dec 8th, 2013 at 4:29pm
 
methods to increase elevator effectiveness
1.  land with an aft cg
2.  place vortex generators ahead of the elevator hinge line
3.  change the tail setting angle to increase the angle of attack in the landing configuration, and thus the circulation around the horiz. tail.  NB:  This will affect the normal straight and level trim and the aerobatic manoeuvre margins.
4.  maintain the AR at 3 and increase the tail volume
(http://adg.stanford.edu/aa241/stability/taildesign.html)
(http://www.aalmps.com/tv.htm)
(http://www.djaerotech.com/dj_askjd/dj_questions/tail_coef.html)


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Reply #101 - Dec 8th, 2013 at 7:49pm
 
OK, thought you meant AR had to BE 6... the Stanford paper seems to think 4.5 - 5 is ideal, so could I increase span a bit and leave the chord  ???

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Reply #102 - Dec 12th, 2013 at 3:21pm
 
If you increase the AR then it may help but it will affect trim for cruise straight and level due to the change in download on the tail increasing the chord of the elevator (reducing the AR) and increasing the semi span to maintain AR 3 is probably one way.  The simplest of increasing the AR or maintaining AR3 with increased chord.  Again I say landing with aft cg may solve your issues as long as you are calm on the sticks..

bear in mind that the spit and to a lesser extent the hurri were very pitch sensitive animals at full scale.  Surprisingly their roll rates were quite average.  Pilots had difficulty with the pitch sensitivity.

Do  you find that with a scale Hurri?

This does imply the distance from the cg to the tail AC was made shorter by Camm and Mitchell such that the pitch sensitivity helped the pilot achieve a better roll rate by pulling and rolling simultaneously.

ME 109 experten trimmed the a/c nose up and flew with pressure on the stick.  This was to improve the a/c response in roll when evading a bounce.

I have landed the twin engine DH Dove with a full complement of Pax and that beast ran out of trim during the last part of the approach with dunlops dangling and going to land flap.  So this was an a/c where you landed with disconcerting back stick pressure prior to flare.

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Reply #103 - Dec 12th, 2013 at 10:55pm
 
Well, following some threads elsewhere.....stock size tail works as long as you have at least 1" up elevator on landing, and you're balanced at 4.5". Real Hurri required full back stick when flaps lowered - FULL BACK - in your gut, bend the stick, no flare, nada
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Reply #104 - Dec 13th, 2013 at 10:53am
 
This is interesting
You may have found it
http://vaillyaviation.com/images/Hurricane%20landing%20technique.pdf

I have my stability and control reference books packed in boxes somewhere.  If I can locate them I will do some calls
I need to know the model scale %

Regards
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Reply #105 - Dec 13th, 2013 at 2:15pm
 
have that write up from Roy, thanks.  Keeping the weight down is the biggest challenge I think, besides getting ti built that is  Margaree Night

The plane is 1/5 +- scale

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Reply #106 - Dec 13th, 2013 at 9:35pm
 
impressions from Chris Erdos
A normal approach starts with a fighter-style overhead break. I always look inside for a moment to ensure that I work the silly H-shaped lever in the right direction: inboard for undercarriage, outboard for flaps. Undercarriage and flap extension are both just slow enough to always raise a pucker of concern. Expect a BIG pitch trim change with flap extension, and it’s normal to run out of aft elevator trim on approach. Elevator effectiveness is poor in the 3-point attitude. Leave a trickle of power through the flare or it will drop out from under you. The landing is almost - pardon the pun – a bit of a let-down. It’s easy. The Hurricane’s undercarriage is wide and soft, and the directional stability and response allow adequate tracking through the roll-out. Compared to the Spitfire, there’s even enough download on the tail to allow some use of brakes.
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Reply #107 - Dec 14th, 2013 at 8:22pm
 
Sandy, you would probably enjoy this video shot at the hamilton airshow this past summer I believe.  Five merlin equipped planes, the lanc, a mossie, two hurricanes and a mustang in a fantastic formation flight.  TEN merlins in the air at the same time.

There is one shot you would be interested in where one of the hurrcanes taxiis out for takeoff and you can really see the smaller tail feathers on the bird.

be warned however this is a 45 minute video and suggest you watch it when you have the time to enjoy it.  It is worth watching!

GOPRO photography at it's best!

www.youtube.com/embed/ceuU1UQuwVU?feature=player_detailpage

a couple of screen grabs from the video.
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Reply #108 - Dec 14th, 2013 at 10:10pm
 
small tail feathers, but it's a freaking brick truck compared with the Spit LOLOL

That's a super vodeo tho....I'd love to have a ride in that Mossie, perhaps more than the Lanc..
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Reply #109 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 4:54pm
 
Now it's way too bad this dash board has all those red numbers scattered all over it  Angry...could almost make it work otherwise...

Can use it as a template tho to make a dash..
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Reply #110 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 4:59pm
 
was there, by any chance, a possibility that British pilots in Africa wore the blues? (Mike P where are you?). I can get this figure (thanks Cool) but the uniform is wrong - every thing I see has them wearing pretty scruffy khaki's...

http://www.warbirdpilots.com/WWII_British_RAF_RC_Pilot_Figure_p/british-raf-pilo...

Of course the Mae West would be superfluously redundant I think..
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Reply #111 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 6:38pm
 
Hmmm.  Let me check on that.

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Reply #112 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 6:38pm
 
Only the high altitude reconnaissance would have worn warm clothing.

The woolen blues no.2s , I think, would have been worn at some formal event in Alexandra etc.

Shirt sleeves at low level and jacket up to 15000

Not much fighting went on at altitude
The order of the day was the luff berry defencive circle which was suicidal against the 109s which would dive in and out and pick them off one by one

The hurries later had the 4 20mm Hispano cannons which were heavy or the tank busting 40mm - I think

I have rad much about the desert warfare and all the pics were black and white
But I never saw blues

If you were over the med then you wore a Mae West

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Reply #113 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 6:43pm
 
We'll call me a
Liar
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Reply #114 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 7:17pm
 
Here you go. No more red numbers....

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Reply #115 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 7:32pm
 
Seems to me that during WWII, RAF pilots stationed in the Mediterranean and the desert flew in sand coloured shirts and shorts.  I've looked through some of my books and found evidence of both sand and blue uniforms....so go figure???



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Reply #116 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 8:32pm
 
yup, sand is what I've been able to find, but BBI is the only one who made a Desert Dressed British pilot and i haven't been able to find on of those......

Mike, if you can just do that with the photo direct from the Haynes Hurricane Manual we'll have it made....  Cheesy
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Reply #117 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 10:13pm
 
Yup.  Scan it and send it to me.  Turn the resolution way up.

I kinda figured the pic came from Haynes.  I have the Spitfire version and it has the same sort of pic ....except its a Spitfire instrument panel.
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Reply #118 - Dec 29th, 2013 at 11:00pm
 
So more pics
In the third they are wearing partly blues! AND Mae Wests
Seems like it was a min true of garb
Depending on individual taste, time of year and mission
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Reply #119 - Dec 30th, 2013 at 6:42am
 
that last pic must be getting ready for higher altitude stuff....jump suits AND fleece lined leather jacket...

khaki shorts and #2 jackets, khaki shorts, khaki longs, black Oxfords, Wellies ...whatta bunch. did they never hear of "uniforms"  Wink
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Reply #120 - Dec 30th, 2013 at 5:05pm
 
Sandy, FYI, I have a laser cut instrument panel here if you want to make yourself a copy.
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Reply #121 - Dec 30th, 2013 at 6:45pm
 
Here ya go, Sandy!

http://www.aerocockpit.com/
http://www.iflytailies.com/

Just need lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$  Wink
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Reply #122 - Dec 30th, 2013 at 8:39pm
 
Steve Mosher wrote on Dec 30th, 2013 at 6:45pm:
Here ya go, Sandy!

http://www.aerocockpit.com/
http://www.iflytailies.com/

Just need lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$  Wink



how much is 18euros?  Looks good Steve for instruments........

Glen, I'll take you up on the panel.... thank you kind sir.....coupled with the photo of the panel from the Hayes book.. Smiley
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Reply #123 - Dec 30th, 2013 at 9:09pm
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 30th, 2013 at 8:39pm:
Steve Mosher wrote on Dec 30th, 2013 at 6:45pm:
Here ya go, Sandy!

http://www.aerocockpit.com/
http://www.iflytailies.com/

Just need lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$  Wink



how much is 18euros?  Looks good Steve for instruments........

Glen, I'll take you up on the panel.... thank you kind sir.....coupled with the photo of the panel from the Hayes book.. Smiley



18 euros is $26.43 Canadian.
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Reply #124 - Dec 30th, 2013 at 9:44pm
 
No problem, I'll dig it out and let you know. Pretty sure I know exactly where it is Smiley
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Reply #125 - Dec 31st, 2013 at 12:23am
 
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Reply #126 - Dec 31st, 2013 at 10:26am
 
thanks Brian....good article on the cockpit.....

nice pilot figure, where'd it come from?

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Reply #127 - Jan 1st, 2014 at 11:55am
 
well. pilot is on his way, being transferred from somewhere - do the Brits have a penal squadron?? Likely some insufferable hoity toity English snob with delusions of grandeur and an inflated opinion of his flying abilities.  Angry

Course, that description could fit several Canadians, at least one south African and maybe one or two Yanks.... WEEEEE
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Reply #128 - Jan 1st, 2014 at 12:49pm
 
Fingers wrote on Jan 1st, 2014 at 11:55am:
do the Brits have a penal squadron


Nope
Just VR University squadron types with red silk blouse lining and white silk scarves

Smiley
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Reply #129 - Jan 1st, 2014 at 2:19pm
 
Silk?
Silk???
SILK????
well they can just take their silk blouses and scarves and  Swear Word Swear Word Swear Word
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Reply #130 - Jan 1st, 2014 at 9:48pm
 
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Reply #131 - Jan 9th, 2014 at 8:28pm
 
Well, committed now, or should be committed, at least have a pilot.. Angry

some hot shot little Scots criminal named Alister McAionish, hails from Kinlochlan, up in Moray. Miserable little twerp, only about 5 foot tall in his Wellies. Shows up here complete with parachute, helmet, goggles, mask.  Smiley  I doubt the uniform is "theater" accurate ( or even War accurate) Angry but likely no one but Mr. Pothier will know  Cheesy

Fair game little guy, crawled right into the frame work for a "fit". Looks like I might be able to build a cockpit around his cheap little donkey!! Found a couple threads about framing up a cockpit....give it a try i guess.

Bugger was only in my basement for 1 night and made a friend...what a party  Lets Party Egyptian Dancer Rock Cheers  My Glenmorangie is almost all gone now  Cry....
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« Last Edit: Jan 9th, 2014 at 8:32pm by Fingers »  

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Reply #132 - Jan 9th, 2014 at 10:06pm
 
Don't forget to get the smell right
To be realistic the cockpit should have the faint odour of skunk.
...if you don't believe me sit in a fighter cockpit

Also the pilot should smell of a combination of beer, cigarettes smoke and stale sweat

After all, it's all about the realism in the hobby...isn't it?
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Reply #133 - Jan 9th, 2014 at 10:24pm
 
waverider wrote on Jan 9th, 2014 at 10:06pm:
Don't forget to get the smell right
To be realistic the cockpit should have the faint odour of skunk.
...if you don't believe me sit in a fighter cockpit

Also the pilot should smell of a combination of beer, cigarettes smoke and stale sweat

After all, it's all about the realism in the hobby...isn't it?



Harvard cockpit never smelled of skunk, just fear and oil... Huh oh yeh and sweat  Angry
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Reply #134 - Mar 9th, 2015 at 10:42am
 
OK!!! Let's stop dicking around here. Made up the tail gear mount (realized at the last minute I'd better put that in before I go much further with the stringers  excited - it could get tight in there.  Wall Bash

3/8 aircraft ply, supported with 1/8 poplar - you can see the 1/4 triangle stock inside, and there will be 1/4 triangle stock outside as well. I mean, this IS part of the landing gear, for a plane I hope to fly - work it out.. Roll Eyes

Some effort was made to ensure the plate is square to the fuse.. DuBro 5/32 nylon mount will go on - yes the plate is already drilled and blind nuts installed...WITH EPOXY!!  Angry
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« Last Edit: Mar 9th, 2015 at 10:44am by Fingers »  

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Reply #135 - Mar 9th, 2015 at 11:32am
 
waverider wrote on Jan 9th, 2014 at 10:06pm:
Don't forget to get the smell right
To be realistic the cockpit should have the faint odour of skunk.
...if you don't believe me sit in a fighter cockpit

Also the pilot should smell of a combination of beer, cigarettes smoke and stale sweat

After all, it's all about the realism in the hobby...isn't it?


Jeez Brian, you must have worked on the avro and Hadley-Page , I wondered who left the skunk there, too😜
Probably the "VULCANized" instrument cables....
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Reply #136 - Mar 9th, 2015 at 3:11pm
 
Plus, this is a hurricane, so any booze smell will be Gin (oh bless my ewe bushes )
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Reply #137 - Mar 9th, 2015 at 4:12pm
 
and tail gear done   Raa Raa

something achieved

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Reply #138 - Mar 19th, 2015 at 7:33pm
 
two more stringers (per side... = 4) and the fuse comes off the jig.  Two of the 4 are rough cut and hanging off the sides.

Crap I'm old...had no idea how much stripping the pine stringers would irritate the arthritis between my knuckles  Undecided

Once off the jig I have to start on the stab and wing because this fits to that but that needs this to be built so that fits this ....... Shocked

my precioussssss, mustn't lose my precioussssss, I needs my precioussss yessss I doessss - mister Bagginses wants to steal my .......... um  Oops
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Reply #139 - Mar 20th, 2015 at 6:11pm
 
Looking good, Sandy.  Smiley Smiley

At least you're making progress... I haven't been in my building room since before Christmas  Undecided
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Reply #140 - Mar 20th, 2015 at 10:12pm
 
maybe, but you've been losing weight..... Raa Raa   I've just been sogging around.. More Mods surfing and minding the dog...
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Reply #141 - Mar 23rd, 2015 at 1:05pm
 
Just because I could, and because I really wanted something sheeted, I made up the doghouse for behind the cockpit.
Used a piece of file folder to get the shape, made two pieces from 1/8 sheet and glued them together....this is a place where you should use carpenters glue of some kind - it sands better than CA  Smiley (wipe surplus glue off as soon as you put sides together). Put the pieces together and tape with plastic electrical tape - this stuff stretches so will put a little "clamping motion" on the pieces. You'll likely have to put weights on both sides to ensure they stay flat.
Once dry I sprayed the outside with ammonia window cleaner and worked the piece around a small can to get some curve, then taped it over the fuse to dry. I put some Saran wrap (advertisement) under the piece to keep the water off the stringers.
Piece is dry this morning and ready to glue - yeh!  Raa Raa
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Reply #142 - Mar 25th, 2015 at 3:18pm
 
Hmmmmm. should I use the vacuum formed, or titivate up the plywood version (copy of a laser item  Glenn got from the USA)

Anyone Huh Sign This is Good
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Reply #143 - Mar 26th, 2015 at 9:24am
 
I like the vaccum formed
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Reply #144 - Mar 26th, 2015 at 4:28pm
 
so do I Ben, here's what the original looked like
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Reply #145 - Mar 27th, 2015 at 8:17am
 
What are you going to do for the part that is missing at the top?
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Reply #146 - Mar 27th, 2015 at 8:22am
 
A quick search brought this one up.  Looks pretty fancy!

http://www.cockpitscale.com/product/hurricane-complete-cockpit-for-brian-taylor-...

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Reply #147 - Mar 27th, 2015 at 6:56pm
 
Have a cockpit kit Ben, and there's a gun sight to fill the hole...

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Reply #148 - Mar 30th, 2015 at 10:06am
 
Didn't realize till after I posted that area was for the gun sight.  Quite a few nice cockpits out there.  Some are very pricey...
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Reply #149 - Mar 30th, 2015 at 11:51am
 
Yup, didn't feel like spending 150 Euro for some plastic. I appreciate some of these guys put a ton of work into their creations, but being retarded sorry retired I can't keep up. I got a kit from Dynamic Balsa..was able to pick and choose what i wanted. Didn't bother with the soldered brass frame. got the seat, dash, compass, gun sight - the kind of stuff you see easily.
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Reply #150 - Mar 30th, 2015 at 1:48pm
 
Just noticed this thread has over 14,000 views.  Shocked Wonder how many you will have once finished?
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Reply #151 - Mar 30th, 2015 at 1:52pm
 
most of those views are skeptics, proving to them selves I'm not progressing - they can see the page count is still at 8....once I really get back at it, and the page count hits 50 or 60  they'll lose interest...... Angry
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Reply #152 - Mar 30th, 2015 at 4:49pm
 
Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
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Reply #153 - Aug 12th, 2015 at 2:17pm
 
Well, something I'd let slip from memory is that, YOU HAVE TO PLAN AHEAD.. Angry  Suddenly realized that I was thinking of starting to begin finishing the stringers, but hadn't done anything about the tank yet, nor the cowl  Hit Palm

Since I don't want a ring of small screws around the edge of the cowl, guess maybe have to use something else..Using the firewall as a template, I cut a ply ring - traced shape on plywood, cut outside to shape, then figured where i wanted bolt tabs, drew inside and cut with trusty sabre. Spacing of tabs was important; need enough (4 likely) but also want flexibility so down the road if the plane flies and looks like it will last  Roll Eyes i could "consider" scale exhaust (Todd) and would need to split the cowl along the scale seam.  Huh Sign

Ring fits..
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Reply #154 - Aug 12th, 2015 at 2:27pm
 
With the ring clamped in place, drilled for the blind nuts, bolted the ring in place to fit....diddle fit just fine.

Put the ring in the cowl, bolted it on and Voila (that's French for holy cr** it might work).

Of course, we are working with blind nuts. SO, the bolt wouldn't go into one of the nuts  Swear Word This with the nut held inside behind the stringers, from the wing saddle area,  by my trusty brain bone picker forceps...

tried new bolt, worked!!!!  Raa Raa In The Air Smiley Im Happy

Next, 24 hours with hysol, and the ring is permanently attached to the cowl, and I have an invisible mount... Tongue
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Reply #155 - Aug 12th, 2015 at 2:36pm
 
I had always hoped to hide both the switch, and the retract air fillerupper (very technical term). The hurricane has 2 large hatches on the starboard side, but few people ever take pictures or draw 3 views of that side.

Turns out Dave Rowe, from Shearwater, has a drawing hanging on the wall at the museum, with a scaled drawing of the right side.... Smiley   Piece of tracing paper, 5 minutes, sketch of the area in question. Trip to Kwik Kopy, scaled up tracing, taped to side of fuse, jiggling, juggling, profile of the 2 hatches. I'll make both, but only gonna use the rear one, and I'm going to truncate it to fit between the formers (shhhh don' tell anyone), but the switch will be in there..
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Reply #156 - Aug 13th, 2015 at 6:42pm
 
Hysol doing it's thing (curing for 24 hours)  This is Good
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Reply #157 - Aug 13th, 2015 at 7:18pm
 
The company that puts out the cockpit kit i bought says the floor is 6" down from the sill of the cockpit...that's about at the top of the tape. The seat tho is roughly where it has to be to suit the pilot....
I thought the pilots' legs stuck out straighter than they suggest....think I'll go with the floor just under the crutch. If the pilots legs don't fit I'll do a "Doug Bader"

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Reply #158 - Oct 7th, 2015 at 2:59pm
 
While diddling with the fuse hatch (still waiting for the retract air fillerupper) I decided it was time to begin thinking about starting the back end thingy that sits parallel to the wing (WE live in a dream world here) and holds the upper downers...

There are no hints anywhere for how much the ribs have to be shimmed up, and all the threads indicate this is a vertical build..... Oh Joy to the World   Raa Raa this is going to be so much fun..cut the stab trailing edge, center line/rib lines yadda yadda; center lines on each rib, 1 2 3  blocks to hold each vertical, and perpendicular. Do center first, than pairs from outside in.

Always hoping that somehow the front center lines of the ribs do line up so the leading edge can go on..... Fun Bat   This is Good
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Reply #159 - Oct 8th, 2015 at 5:47am
 
Nice work Sandy!  Your getting there.
I like your parallel blocks too.
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Reply #160 - Oct 9th, 2015 at 7:28pm
 
Fussy, fussy;  excited  Not sure if anything was really achieved, but I strung a thread from each end of the trailing edge, over the ends of the ribs - used it as a straight edge on the front.. Huh Sign

thread was thinner than the pen line so not sure of the accuracy, and the leading edge will jam stuff into place if not too far off.... I think.. Margaree Night

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Reply #161 - Dec 29th, 2015 at 2:12pm
 
Huh? Is Christmas over all ready???  Cheesy Way too much coffee @ Bailey's  Embarrassed

Anyhow, stab ribs on (discovered the laser cut ribs not quite correct) hardwood spars, then manufactured tips to suit. (no details on the plan) (but that's what plans are for). So now tips have to be sanded to match the leading edge profile, then sheet the thing....
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Reply #162 - Jan 22nd, 2016 at 8:13pm
 
Start of scale hinging on stab - flying by the seat of my drawers here...
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Reply #163 - Jan 23rd, 2016 at 9:15am
 
I always find hinging to be difficult; I generally screw it up.

I know the square root of squat about how the control surfaces on a Hurricane were hinged.  Where did you get your documentation?

Keep the pictures coming.
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Reply #164 - Jan 23rd, 2016 at 1:02pm
 
Looks great Sandy! However I thinks you need to turn them there thing 90 deg for it to work? I Didnt Do It
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Reply #165 - Jan 23rd, 2016 at 2:29pm
 
You never know with those british engineered things Al  Roll Eyes
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Reply #166 - Jan 24th, 2016 at 8:25am
 
Mike - I'd started these from Vaillincourt's web site on making scale hinges,
then
took a good look at some photos I have and realized with the hurricane I'd be better off using G10 instead of ply. Concept is right, but hinge way too thick. (He was talking about thicker looks better). Well he's wrong in this instance...

Cool - p*** off  Cheesy

Glen - did I ever tell you the story of how the Brits fixed the problem with the wings on the Comet breaking off?  No? Fine.. Angry
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Reply #167 - Jan 24th, 2016 at 8:28am
 
PS - I have a cd with about 100 photos of the one that landed in Saint John 2 years ago. also a short Vid of the start-up.

Copies can be had
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Reply #168 - Jan 24th, 2016 at 9:17am
 
LOL, no you did not, but I think they fixed it by putting round window's in  Wink
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Reply #169 - Jan 24th, 2016 at 12:11pm
 
The windows fixed the fuse problem.  Smiley

There also was a problem with the wing. One broke off on the test plane, and there were signs of a tear on the second (before they got the plane into service). Wall Bash The imminent tear was in the same place as the break on the first one. Every engineer on the island got involved, because the Comet was to be the salvation of the British aerospace industry, AND the airline industry... no joy Angry

Finally a young guy suggested they go discuss the problem with "   " (you can likely floogle his name), an old, gnarly, retired Dehavilland  engineer of the Hart, Dart, Fury era. He thought for a while, then suggest they drill a series of tiny holes (.001 comes to mind) right along the line where the wings broke and/or were stressing. Top and bottom. Right through the skin. It worked!!!! And the industry was saved. Gnarly one was Knighted.  Raa Raa
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Reply #170 - Jan 24th, 2016 at 1:48pm
 
plans show stab as sheeted @ 3/32, but original is canvas, along with elevators and fin/rudder.  (Confirmed by guys at BBMF)

So, guess I'll leave it open with Leading edge and capstrips, same as fin and rudder will be

SO, now I'm editing again:

And after hours or heart rending pondering and studying, Really Im Reading I decided to make the hinges from 1/8 ply. I was thinking G10 for strength, but remembered each side is going to have 4 large Robart hinges, PLUS the two large bearings at the center around the elevator joiner. I "think" it's strong enough. If 1/8 looks too thin I can double up to 1/4 easily.

A major deciding factor is that a 12x12 sheet of 1/8 G10 is $33.00 plus shipping/taxes/etc.  Undecided
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Reply #171 - Jan 26th, 2016 at 8:26pm
 
So, modified hinge idea, rotated "them there thing 90 deg"  per the Cool comment,  and in.

The hinge on the Robarts will be spaced from the trailing edge the same amount. Hopefully, once the elevator leading edge is built around this stuff all will pivot scalely..(important aeronautic term) . Robart has confirmed  their points can be offset, and if I'm uncomfortable with their strength I can set them in a 7/32 brass tube from trailing edge to pivot.... Thinking






This is Good
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Reply #172 - Feb 1st, 2016 at 8:28pm
 
Well, back part of leading edge notched for ply hinge and drilled for robarts....then a secondary leading edge to secure the nyrod...then stuff and more stuff;

The center of the leading edge will be cut out and replaced with an aluminum rod (instead of the 25 gms of 3/16 piano wire joiner. Add a few ribs and the ply trailing edge, some capstrips, build up the leading edge and round it.....and Frank's my Uncle..
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Reply #173 - Feb 1st, 2016 at 9:12pm
 
I though it was Bob? Roll Eyes

Looking good!
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Reply #174 - Feb 2nd, 2016 at 7:38am
 
Keep it going Sandy, looking good.. Cool
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Reply #175 - Feb 2nd, 2016 at 2:13pm
 
I do NOT have an Uncle Bob!!  Angry

Norman, Ross, Frank, Earl, Tug, Rupert.........
NO BOBS
  Smiley
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Reply #176 - Feb 2nd, 2016 at 10:40pm
 
I love the attention being paid to hinging detail.  'Good stuff' Sandy.
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Reply #177 - Feb 3rd, 2016 at 9:37pm
 
Thanks Mike, was just going to use robarts...but that darn end hinge is just so flangdering huge I had no choice...getting all the hinge points at the same place is the challenge.

At least on the tail plane there are three large hinges, so just have to make them, not mix with the Robarts...
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Reply #178 - Feb 4th, 2016 at 7:33pm
 
OK, starting on the elevators - Some of the ribs. Each side has 2 outer ribs that poke forward and make the counterbalances. Gonna be tough to get them straight - can't use my 1-2-3's        Time to BuildWall Bash Violin Whine
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Reply #179 - Feb 4th, 2016 at 8:30pm
 
And dry fit the trailing edge......
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Reply #180 - Feb 5th, 2016 at 6:43am
 
Looks great! Keep them coming.
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Reply #181 - Feb 8th, 2016 at 4:00pm
 
AAARRRRGGGGHHHHH
talking to Cool today about that heavy joiner wire between the elevators, and could I replace it with 2 servos up inside.....he recommended 2 servos set inside the stabs.... Swear Word

Crud, why didn't I think of that instead of blindly following the plans......... Wall Bash

Jeez it sucks to get old  Angry  Now to find two strong but not behemouthy servos... Cheesy

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Reply #182 - Feb 8th, 2016 at 8:12pm
 
MH has some nice new tactic servo's that would fit the bill nicely.
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Reply #183 - Feb 8th, 2016 at 9:18pm
 
Thank you kind sir.......don't want much. small, thin, HV, steel gears, fast, $19.95   Roll Eyes

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Reply #184 - Feb 9th, 2016 at 10:49am
 
LOL, don't know if they can get in under that, but I do know that they've got some that will fit the bill for less than double that amount.

Of course, if you're heading to Nevada or California any time soon, you might want to consider these :
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/hobby-people-hp-d58mhv-hi-torq-mg-bb-digita...
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Reply #185 - Feb 9th, 2016 at 11:55am
 
Look very fine, but what is the quality I wonder? Price is right....when's your next trip down there??

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Reply #186 - Feb 9th, 2016 at 12:32pm
 
Don't have any of that exact servo (but I will sooner or later), do have their equivalent of a hitec645, works the same for about half the price. I think they might be even made in the same factory  Wink
As far as being down there, sadly no plans in the near future. Perhaps we need to plan a boy's weekend in vegas, you know, just to grab a few Roll Eyes
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Reply #187 - Feb 9th, 2016 at 3:54pm
 
For some reason I'd have more faith in a hitec than a Hobby People - not sure why  Tongue  I should probably be start accumulating a set of these; need about 7, and some smaller for throttle and retract.

And Remember, what you grab in Vegas stays in Vegas, so that's no good for a servo trip... Angry
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Reply #188 - Feb 9th, 2016 at 6:47pm
 
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Reply #189 - Feb 9th, 2016 at 7:33pm
 
For some reason "Bluebird" conjures up images of tiny 4gm servos in Depron indoor planes. These seem to have some torque, not sure; gonna have to lift the elevators on a 25+lb plane in flight
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Reply #190 - Feb 12th, 2016 at 5:13pm
 
Darn these elevators are over engineered. His inner "ends" on the elevators are made from 4 pieces of 1/4 balsa sanded down to half round, but the full scale has inner edges same sharp as the trailing edge  - now that makes sense doesn't it  Undecided 

Looks like lots of sanding here..and whittling...and maybe even leaving pieces out
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Reply #191 - Feb 12th, 2016 at 10:27pm
 
That's the elevator trim tab
😎
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Reply #192 - Feb 13th, 2016 at 9:30am
 
actually that's the rudder trim tab on the right. I was trying to show the inner edge of the elevator off to the left, just beside the fitting for the rudder cable. Not a great photo of it, but all I have.
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Reply #193 - Feb 16th, 2016 at 7:39pm
 
Jack, stab assembled, and I make no claims as to precision or butt gluing, however there is a lot of consumption of time. Mostly trying to figure out exactly what the drawings are saying...Jeez I know Glen, the drawings aren't "saying" anything, I have to read and interpret.  Angry

However, at this stage, BEFORE any sanding, the stuff is exactly 6 ounces. I'm still undecided about whether to use 1 elevator servo in the front, or two in the stabs. That will make a weight difference. Now to sand!!! Try to match the profile on the pictures I have from the real one.
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Reply #194 - Feb 16th, 2016 at 9:58pm
 
Looking at the stab on your scale gives me a sense of the size of the thing...its gonna be a big brute.
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Reply #195 - Feb 17th, 2016 at 6:36am
 
Looking good man.
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Reply #196 - Feb 17th, 2016 at 8:19am
 
Mike, I've flown RC planes with WINGS smaller than this stab  Wink

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Looking good man.
   thank you kind sir.

Now to see how much weight I can sand off.............remember, every ounce i can get off the tail is 5.41 I don't need on the nose. Unless it's there to hold something important on.. Roll Eyes
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Reply #197 - Feb 22nd, 2016 at 4:40pm
 
Well, about 2 years ago I posted about making a hatch on the starboard side to hide the switches and junk.

Cover made (if i can find it) and the panel behind made - 2 deans plug short switches (dunno what they're really called), the air valve and the air pressure guage.

This Hurri I won't have to stand on it's nose to fill the air.
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Reply #198 - Feb 22nd, 2016 at 4:49pm
 
Just to show I'm not perfect, despite what you all think, I FUBAR'd in a major way. Despite all my measuring when I set up the crutch at the start of this exercise, i buggered.  Wall Bash

I got the end former in the wrong place! About 1/2 inch short. Never came up till I was wondering how the stab might look on the fuse. The bed for the stab obviously sticks out past the end former.  Huh

Fortunately, working with wood instead of composite, things can be sanded, glued, covered, and otherwise hidden, so it is fixable, but I've run out of emoticons ... Im With Stupid
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Reply #199 - Feb 22nd, 2016 at 6:45pm
 
Well if you were going to place a former in the wrong spot, that's the one. I foresee you making a second former and replacing a couple of stringers. Cool
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Reply #200 - Feb 22nd, 2016 at 7:09pm
 
Yup, guess that's what I'm going to do.

And I know what I did first time round - when adding the inch on the front to help balance I pulled the jig forward leaving the tail former in the wrong place  Roll Eyes
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Reply #201 - Feb 22nd, 2016 at 8:28pm
 
I agree with Glen.  Make an intermediate former and rejig some stringers; keeps the plane from getting tail heavy, and keeps the proportions right.

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Reply #202 - Feb 23rd, 2016 at 11:03am
 
Awwwwwwwwww - I've looked at that inside former; take the old former out, make a new  interim former, keep the stringers in the right places, CR**! FUBAR!

For the 1/2 inch involved, adding a new end piece is a lot less effort. By the time everything is done the stab will be 6 ounces again, with an extra 1/2 inch on the balance arm.

Proporations are already screwy because I lengthened the nose..... Swear Word Wall Bash Beating A Dead Horse Fun Bat Sick Gimpy Swear Word Margaree Night Dusty

And the tail wheel mount is on that inside former..plus the fuse, from the second last former to the end, is sheeted. Stringer work is minimized, my FUBAR gets hidden, I'll put 1 servo inside instead of 2 in the stabs, balance won't be tooooo bad with 1/2 inch overlong, and I can justify till the cows come home  Cheesy
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Reply #203 - Feb 23rd, 2016 at 10:48pm
 
Go for it Sandy!
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Reply #204 - Feb 24th, 2016 at 7:08pm
 
I think, therefore I am.                                          
confused


add the 1/2 inch and hide the fubar with the sheeting.
2 servos, up in the wing saddle area with everything else....cf pushrods (2)
way to go
yup
think so
likely
absotively
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Reply #205 - Feb 27th, 2016 at 9:06pm
 
elevator sanded a bit - 4/10 of an ounce off

6.6% of the total hor. stab dry weight. Since i have to add the horns, and cover, gotta get as much off as possible. But then, haven't sanded the stab yet. Likely get an ounce off total, but add 2 back on.  Angry

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Reply #206 - Feb 28th, 2016 at 12:43pm
 
Fingers wrote on Feb 27th, 2016 at 9:06pm:
Likely get an ounce off total, but add 2 back on.


That sounds familiar.  Been there, done that.
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Reply #207 - Feb 28th, 2016 at 4:58pm
 
You're making great progress, Sandy. Look good!!

Awesome seeing all this balsa glued together.
Meanwhile, I can't even figure why my flaps are messed up on my turbine  Angry Angry Angry
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Reply #208 - Mar 3rd, 2016 at 4:53pm
 
another 10th of an ounce.....the center gets cut out, be replaced by brass tube attached to one side only - for esthetics  Angry.  I'm going with 2 servos inside, try and keep weight off the tail.

Dubro Ball link control horns. Think they do an unobtrusive job, and their bases will be covered by the fabric..

Steve - "flaps messed up.........turbine" it's all there in the one comment. Blow torches and carbon; don't think so... Roll Eyes
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Reply #209 - Mar 8th, 2016 at 3:06pm
 
Having duly considered the effort to move the inside former and reset/replace the stringers, I finally went with the quick and dirty approach, giving me a "not perfect but kind of OK"  result.

Data line down the top centre stringer, plum line down the new end piece, lots of clamps, forgot the glue and had to take it apart, ADD THE GLUE, then realign and re-clamp.

Once the stab is on, the fin is on, and the fuse under the stab is covered with the scale sheeting on the tail, only Mike, Glen, Cool, a few thread watchers, and I will know it's wrong.

On the bright side, a screwp that would normally ground me for about 2 months has been dealt with in only 3 weeks.  Raa Raa AADD be darned!! In the process, I've confirmed a long held belief among aircraft builders.....

FUBAR/SNAFU = TLAR
    Angry Margaree Night

Oh yes - the addition is 3 plys of 1/4 ply, plus 1 of 1/8. Hollowed out inside it weighs .64 oz, so I'm going to have to build in 3.5 ounces up front to offset it.
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Reply #210 - Mar 8th, 2016 at 3:40pm
 
Once you take the clamps off it will likely only be 2oz.

Just saying....

Also I thinks you will find far larger sin in the real macoy if you were to dig.
Keep going Sandy. You may not have to will that to me yet! Grin
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Reply #211 - Mar 8th, 2016 at 5:00pm
 
The rearrangement looks great, Sandy.  Well done.

As it zooms along the flight line at 5 metres AGL all that anyone will notice is that it looks like a proper fighter.
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Reply #212 - Mar 8th, 2016 at 5:14pm
 
Yeah, that looks like it'll be just the ticket.
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Reply #213 - Apr 5th, 2016 at 2:49pm
 
Vertical fin started - laser cutting not as good as I'd hoped for, but "fixable"
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Reply #214 - May 15th, 2016 at 11:21am
 
Fin and rudder done in rough.  Set some hinges, sand, dick around, fix, redo, sand, cover.....


I've flown lots of planes smaller than the rudder on this thing......
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Reply #215 - Jun 26th, 2016 at 1:42pm
 
Well, I needed more weight on the nose to offset the FUBAR'd tail former "fixed" about 6 posts ago... No Whine Zone

The engine I was going to use won't work. Being a copy of an old 3W, the carb is on the side, and just will not fit under the cowl, requiring a humungos/hemungous/homingis  ... very large hole in the cowl and carb sticking out about an inch.  Crappy Day MikeP would never forgive me.

So,  Margaree Night I have to make a 1 1/4 inch engine box to stand the DLE off from the firewall. Oh joy oh bliss  Swear Word
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Reply #216 - Jul 19th, 2016 at 6:45pm
 
Well, this makes the prop plate just clear the front of the cowl (once I cut it up  Wall Bash) and also moves the CG ahead... Smiley so I guess all is not lost..

Gonna hate to make that first  Cry Undecided cut  Swear Word Im Happy in the bottom of that nice, smooth firm round piece of fiberglass joy, so well ...... Sad sorry..

I'll be careful.

I also have another 16 5mm bolts, 2 3/4 in. long if anyone needs something like that..to go with the 40 or so 5mm x 2 1/4 in. bolts.
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Reply #217 - Jul 19th, 2016 at 7:55pm
 
AAANNNDDD FUBAR'D but quite usable   Raa Raa   Few fender washers and the clearance is right - need 3/16 to clear, so go for 1/4
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Reply #218 - Jul 19th, 2016 at 8:41pm
 
I don't see no FUBAR.  It looks pretty neat and tidy to me.

Curious to learn what sort of muffler you will be using.  Will it be mostly inside the cowl'?
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Reply #219 - Jul 19th, 2016 at 10:05pm
 
Well, the DLE comes with one of those quaint side thingy's...what I'd really like to do is learn to braze and make something more scalery/scaley/real looking - but that would be a challenge. Wink

open to offers to teach me brazing.. Roll Eyes
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Reply #220 - Jul 23rd, 2016 at 3:30pm
 
Well, these standoff standoffs will do the trick. By the time I put the spinner backplate on, plenty of prop clearance
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Reply #221 - Jul 26th, 2016 at 7:34pm
 
There's a fuel tank inside. Don't know anything about these rotary fuel tanks, but Frank Tiano tells me this is the only fuel tank he uses in his giant scale planes - good enough for him good enough for me.   Roll Eyes

I wanted to put the fill on top of the fuse; there's a hinged cover on the real hurricane about midway between the glass and the cowl, but darned if I can get a good pic of it, or actual location. So I'm going to take a tip from Todd's Strega. I noticed his fill line exits in the hatch he uses for switches and all that stuff, so, pending more info on the top front cover, I'll go with this location...

With the tank in I can start working around where the throttle and choke servo go, THEN can think about sheeting the front.
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Reply #222 - Jul 26th, 2016 at 9:26pm
 
Looking good, Sandy!!
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Reply #223 - Aug 17th, 2016 at 6:41pm
 
Couldn't wait for LHS any more, so tied the fuel tubing off with micro wire ties and installed the tank. Screws in so I "should' be able to get it out if needs be.  Thanks

Tank is in the way of the pushrods to the carb!!  Hit Palm Don't engine manufacturers think of this stuff when they design the engines??? Throttle will be easy, but choke will require a bit of effort - think I'm going to put a servo plate on the side of the fuse to the right behind the tank, under that red tube which will be the throttle pushrod feed. The servos will be on their side sticking into the area behind the stringers  Huh Sign
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Reply #224 - Aug 22nd, 2016 at 11:00am
 
Yes in deed it does come out....talking to Todd (bitchin'  Sad to Todd about how hard it is to get the throttle and choke lines around the tank Wall Bash) he asked "WHY do you have the tank stuffed into that little hole Bob put on the plans? The engine does have a pump you know!!!"  Undecided

So, after discussing a brass tank (not needed but wonderful idea Todd) I realized I can put up to a 24 oz. tank up under the front of the fuse right behind the dash, and more over the CG. DOH!! And amazing how much easier to feed the engine pushrods through then.... Wink
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Reply #225 - Sep 19th, 2016 at 1:48pm
 
The things you think about when driving through the boring barrens of northern New Brunswick!! When cutting the firewall out, I followed the inside of the lines on the template - not enough.. Huh
As you can see the cowl is flush with the stringers, before the sheeting is put on... Wall Bash So now I mark 3/32 around the edge of the firewall and start sanding  Beating A Dead Horse With care I can taper everything back smoothly..... Undecided
Well, since the sheeting is 3/32, perhaps a bit less than 3/32 is the best, gives some sanding room...so 1/16 all around
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Reply #226 - Sep 21st, 2016 at 6:46pm
 
I sincerely hope that Spackle and glue are scale  Roll Eyes  Lots of sheets - fitting, gluing, sanding, filling, sanding  Angry

Pins, did I mention pins!!!!! Luckily I have a box of map pins from Staples I got years ago.....pins, pins, lots of pins............. Margaree Night Wall Bash Bed Time
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Reply #227 - Sep 22nd, 2016 at 9:30am
 
Fingers wrote on Sep 21st, 2016 at 6:46pm:
I sincerely hope that Spackle and glue are scale  Roll Eyes  Lots of sheets - fitting, gluing, sanding, filling, sanding  Angry

Pins, did I mention pins!!!!! Luckily I have a box of map pins from Staples I got years ago.....pins, pins, lots of pins............. Margaree Night Wall Bash Bed Time


Ready to put your head in that vise yet Sandy?  Cheesy
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Reply #228 - Sep 27th, 2016 at 2:16pm
 
still pins, but each piece gets a bit better...by the time I'm finished this exercise I'll be ready for #2.... Roll Eyes

still viceless Ben, still viceless  Sad
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Reply #229 - Sep 27th, 2016 at 7:18pm
 
Fingers wrote on Sep 27th, 2016 at 2:16pm:
still pins, but each piece gets a bit better...by the time I'm finished this exercise I'll be ready for #2.... Roll Eyes

still viceless Ben, still viceless  Sad


Sorry I was never a kit builder does #2 reference a bowel movement or something else?
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Reply #230 - Sep 28th, 2016 at 10:10am
 
WELL, some say I'm full of sh**, and there are mornings when I'm ......... Huh

anyway, no, #2 here refers to the second Hurricane for which fuse parts are already cut out...see the second post on page 1.... Smiley. By the time I get this fuse and wing sheeted (relearning old stuff) the second one would be a snap...
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Reply #231 - Sep 28th, 2016 at 2:49pm
 
Cut, fit, pin, take off and trim, re-fit with more pins, take off and trim again...trial fit  Raa Raa
Neat thing is this piece fits the other side too, so make a copy and then

fit, trim a bit, fit, glue, pin, pin, some tape and a few more pins  Naaah

THEN cut some saddles out....
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Reply #232 - Oct 2nd, 2016 at 2:26pm
 
OK, basic sheeting done up front, Egyptian Dancer now cut out the wing saddles, sand, sand, sand, decide on the wing fairings, install the wing fairings and sand some more...pretty much at the point where I need a wing center section to continue.... Thank You Loyal Fans
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Reply #233 - Oct 2nd, 2016 at 7:17pm
 
Looking great, Sandy! I like it. Good to see real wood being used again.

Between this thread and looking at Al's plans for the big P-47, the building itch has got the Tigercat back to the table - just have to figure out where I was.

You're getting do good at sheeting, I just may have to offer a bribe or two to get mine done.  Wink Wink
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Reply #234 - Oct 2nd, 2016 at 9:11pm
 
Thanks Steve, but there are some big SNAFU's there, not quite FUBAR but close. Who remembered that sheeting liberally sprayed with windex might shrink!!!!!!  Wall Bash  Oh well, inlay some thin strips and sand, sand, sand.......
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Reply #235 - Oct 3rd, 2016 at 2:42pm
 
Wing saddle rough cut - NOW starting to look like it might someday maybe become something recognizable as an aircraft.. Smiley
Many ways to cut the saddle.. I took a piece of wire just long enough to fit between the sides, and sharpened the ends. Then laid the wire on the saddle inside, and ccaarrreeefffuulllyyy moved it side to side and punctured the sheeting. Then took a pencil and joined the dots - gave me the shape of the saddle on the outside. Huh
Then I cut a slit, slid a hack saw blade through side to side (fortunately my father's old stock from 157 years ago had a lot of very fine toothed blades.)  Slide, slide, saw, slide, saw, eventually "VOILA"  Raa Raa  saddles on either side. Then of course we have 1/32 ply panels running back to the inside ply edges to give a finished look, but I can't do much more here until the wing center section is done....
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Reply #236 - Oct 3rd, 2016 at 7:30pm
 
Your getting there Sandy, Looking good.
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Reply #237 - Oct 18th, 2016 at 8:45am
 
Sandy,
Any pics on the scheme you will be using?
Maybe it's there but might have missed it...
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Reply #238 - Nov 11th, 2016 at 3:55pm
 
OK, I knew in a theoretical sense that the gear base would overlap the wing joint, but when you lay it out on the plans, cr**y poopinheimer!!! I would REALLY like to make a 3 piece wing for ease of storage, transport, assembly and other sources of hanger rash....
I guess one idea is to lengthen the center section by inch either end, moving rib 4 out  Wall Bash Crappy Day Bed Time, but if I do that, maaybe I should really enlarge the stab now that it's all done but for the sanding and covering...
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Reply #239 - Nov 13th, 2016 at 5:12am
 
That looks quit scary Sandy!  Do you cut the main spar to get the wheels up? If so what are the guys doing to strengthen the wing? Also were is the flap/ aileron joint in relation to the gear. Your pic doesn't show that.  That would be the place to cut if it's at all possible. Looks like a tough one to me.
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Reply #240 - Nov 13th, 2016 at 5:27am
 
After a second look I see there's a 1/4 by 1/2 spar aft of the wheel well. So that be fine. That's where I'd put the wing tube. Looks to me the best place for the cut is dead center of the wheel well. Won't matter if the gear is up or down then, but I don't know were the side of the fuse is or were all the working are.
  Once you decide where to put it then the easy part is over.    just saying...
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Reply #241 - Nov 13th, 2016 at 4:25pm
 
Easy as pie, Sandy. Just have a few drinks, start up the chain saw and make that first decisive cut  Wink
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Reply #242 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 2:17pm
 
Unfortunately Al, the wheel wells are completely under the fuse. The dihedral break on the wing is that front to back double line through the gear base at rib 4. If I do put the break there, then 1/3 of the gear base is outside the break.
Kinda looks like an extra inch on either side of the center section might be the best way to go. If I put another rib 4 just outside the gear base..... Sad
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Reply #243 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 2:19pm
 
Another question.....what servos are you guys putting in the big warbirds?

Thought of Savox, but then remembered Steve's bomber  Roll Eyes

1 rudder
2 elevator
2 aileron
bunch of flap... 2 very strong or 4 not so.
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Reply #244 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 2:59pm
 
Just make sure you loktite the servo arm screws
amazing flight with one arm off an aileron - this on a 50cc MX
you wanna see an aileron flutter - try it

savox is ok
either futaba or hitex has a smaller screw diameter - which i do not like even though the servo is good quality

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Reply #245 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 3:33pm
 
Savox serves weren't the problem ones, Sandy. The bad ones were HD Power. Angry >: Angry
I have Savox's in my turbine.

Using Hitec 645's in the Dauntless.
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Reply #246 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 4:14pm
 
Sorry Steve, I thought is was the Savox's that caught fire....I'll look at the Hitec fur sure....

Tah Dah Here is the bottom of the plane with THE LAST OF THE STRINGERS ON THE FUSE!!! Raa Raa Thank You Loyal Fans   All 57 freaking stringers, each one put through the stripper to cut them down in the right place, each one cut from a pine board,  Cry, each one.....Oh! I can't go on  Wall Bash Wall Bash Beating A Dead Horse Margaree Night
Now look at the plans and try and figure out how and where he sheeted the bottom, then the ventral...
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Reply #247 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 4:15pm
 
always locktite my arms Brian............learned the hard way  Angry

of course I've been known to locktite my fingers as well  Roll Eyes and toes once, but it's better we don't go into THAT one. Angry
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Reply #248 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 9:20pm
 
Incredible Sandy. You have almost 32,000 views for this build!!

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Reply #249 - Nov 19th, 2016 at 10:54pm
 
administrator wrote on Nov 19th, 2016 at 9:20pm:
Incredible Sandy. You have almost 32,000 views for this build!!

Bow to the Master Bow to the Master

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mostly mine Bruce, I look at it 177 times a day to raise the count....plus it's taking so darn long, and I know the doubters are keeping track to see when I quit.
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Reply #250 - Nov 20th, 2016 at 1:07pm
 
Thunderbolt has 645's, and they are on their way. Thank you Steve, and Santa too.... Bow to the Master
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Reply #251 - Nov 22nd, 2016 at 8:12pm
 
Elevator push rods,  Smiley Rudder cable tubes  Thinking and since I know the size of the servos Santa is bringing, I put the servo rails in as well....I put them just under/behind the wing hold down plate in case I have to use space for the interior....
Get some 3/32 sheet and finish the bottom and tail of the fuse..

All this so I can put off working with the ribs for the center section. Combination of my landings, heavy plane and our runways dictate reinforced landing gear, so some ribs are being laminated with CF......and I hate that stuff... excited 
But, big fan to outside going, shop vac under the saw, twin filtered face mask....
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Reply #252 - Nov 22nd, 2016 at 9:13pm
 
nice rods   Roll Eyes
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Reply #253 - Nov 22nd, 2016 at 10:07pm
 
Yak Man wrote on Nov 22nd, 2016 at 9:13pm:
nice rods   Roll Eyes


Why thank you kind sir. I'm sure there is some kind of psychological reason behind 5 rods in my fuse, but I will leave THAT discussion for those even more twisted than I... This is Good
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Reply #254 - Nov 28th, 2016 at 4:50pm
 
Wing Fairing is MUCH too freaking large...did a mock up and Holy Petutes  Ahhhh

Not a Hurricane anywhere with fairings like this.....

The real one pales by comparison..
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Reply #255 - Dec 8th, 2016 at 6:23am
 
Wing fillets are hard to do.  Just don't look directly at it for too long! Smiley

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Reply #256 - Dec 18th, 2016 at 1:46pm
 
OK, ribs for the center section are ready........#3 is going to be doubled to add strength for the landing gear - doubler is that little sub rib....
think I might drill everything and use the wing jig...
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Reply #257 - Dec 19th, 2016 at 10:47am
 
Progress, Sandy!! Looking good. That is going to be a beautiful plane.

I used to do that "gluing wood together" thing but found it cut into my rum savoring time too much so now I take the easy route and just stick assorted parts together.  Grin Grin Grin
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Reply #258 - Dec 19th, 2016 at 1:34pm
 
I find that I'm so intent in relieving stress, following doctors advice from my post on "General" that even using rye instead of rum my assorted parts get stuck in some verrrry strange places..
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Reply #259 - Dec 20th, 2016 at 9:36am
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 18th, 2016 at 1:46pm:
OK, ribs for the center section are ready........#3 is going to be doubled to add strength for the landing gear - doubler is that little sub rib....
think I might drill everything and use the wing jig...



Those spars are a tad in the short side.
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Reply #260 - Dec 20th, 2016 at 11:54am
 
al wrote on Dec 20th, 2016 at 9:36am:
Fingers wrote on Dec 18th, 2016 at 1:46pm:
OK, ribs for the center section are ready........#3 is going to be doubled to add strength for the landing gear - doubler is that little sub rib....
think I might drill everything and use the wing jig...



Those spars are a tad in the short side. 


yup, good catch...
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Reply #261 - Dec 20th, 2016 at 8:02pm
 
Tried to fit everything on the wing jig - pretty awkward so I'll build on the board.  Angry
Roughed up the center, Chinese Fire Drill. This will be an exercise in whaddoIgluefirst?  Huh
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Reply #262 - Dec 22nd, 2016 at 9:04pm
 
OK, now I'm committed, or at least should be committed. Time to Build Center ribs glued in place. Roy has a lot of spars and sub spars, some on top, some underneath, so each rib will have to be looked at carefully to decide what/when.  Sad Center rib (1), and 2 ribs on either side don't have flaps, so they are stock. From here on, each set of ribs has to have the flap drawn on it and partially cut so the piece can be removed.
Because they are split flaps, they hang down under the wing without being seen on top, but the flaps have to be built in so the rib is complete for the top sheeting to be done  Huh Sign, then the piece removed. Plus, Roy designed the flaps about 30% too large in area so I have to redo his drawings on the plans....rib by rib  Wall Bash
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Reply #263 - Dec 26th, 2016 at 7:27pm
 
I'm dreaming of a Hurri
cane

Just like the one I'd like to fly.........
It is made all    of wood
From plans I don't read good
Maybe someday will reach the skyyyyyyyyyyy

Center section partially assembled, so I stuck the fuse on it so I could dream a bit......Ribs 1, 2 and 3 (both sides) are on now; if I put 2 #4 ribs on either side (widening the span by about 3 inches, I could maybe come up with a way to get a 3 piece wing.............mmmmmmmmmmmmmm Undecided Huh
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Reply #264 - Dec 27th, 2016 at 10:17am
 
Looking good.
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Reply #265 - Jan 2nd, 2017 at 3:55pm
 
Couple of gear mounts cut out. Plans call for 3/8 x 1/2 maple rails, but I figured with my landings I'd split a rail eventually. 1/4 aircraft ply laminated with 1/8 aircraft ply.

I also left the outer end of the ply in one piece  Huh Sign   might be a bit stronger. I still have to cut this inner end to fit the ribs 4 and 5, and the leading edge. One of these you need the ribs to cut the rails, but you need the rails to put the ribs in... Embarrassed
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Reply #266 - Jan 3rd, 2017 at 7:50pm
 
Ribs 1 - 4 both sides in, about all I can do from this side. No, the front strip is NOT glued to the ribs and YES I know some ribs are bowed  Angry Lie ply does that sort of thing!!

I put one of two wing tubes I have in for a lookie. I figure, never having done tubes before, that the tube should likely go out to about rib 7 in the panels. If I use the 1 1/2" tube that is shown in the wing, at rib 7 it is only 3/16" from the bottom of the wing. If I use the smaller tube in the background, 1", then the bottom of the tube out at rib 7 is 3/4" from the bottom of the wing  Huh Sign   Don't know if the 1" tube is large enough.... Huh
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Reply #267 - Jan 3rd, 2017 at 9:01pm
 
interesting question
i am assuming one tube through boith wings?
1.  the 3/16 rib dimn is insuffiecient but the wing skin will make up for the insufficienc...but not in a heavy landing on one truck
2.  I like the 1 inch...but you must have a sleeve tube that is
a) a close fit in the rib hole; and
b) the 1 inch tube must fit the sleeve with a sliding close fit
c) if you havent contemplated the tube then wrap one from thin card and use glue with saran wrap etc..
3.  rib 7 sounds good.  assuming the rib spacing is what i think it is( about 2 inches).
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Reply #268 - Jan 9th, 2017 at 1:32pm
 
Center section glued up - everything I can get to from the top except for the gear mounts and the sheeting. I'll take a good look at things, and if I can get the gear mounts in from below I'll sheet the top to make it more rigid. Then I can fit it to the fuse to make the fairings.
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Reply #269 - Jan 9th, 2017 at 1:38pm
 
Bottom rear of the fuse sheeted. Not happy  Angry. The 1/8 balsa sheeting was as hard as plywood, and was impervious to ammonia! Soaked a piece over night and it still wouldn't bend. So I had to resort to planking, and I never was any good at planking.  Wall Bash

Fortunately the balsa is/was 1/8 so there is lots to sand off!  Undecided By the time I get it smooth I'll have 1/16 sheet and about 1 1/2 pound off the rear.... Hit Palm

At least it's almost to the point where I can fit the wing center to do fairings.... Im Happy
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Reply #270 - Jan 9th, 2017 at 10:31pm
 
Looking good, Sandy. I know what you mean about planking. I've always struggled with it.
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Reply #271 - Jan 10th, 2017 at 9:13am
 
Making progress. I like it.
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Reply #272 - Jan 12th, 2017 at 11:49am
 
Ben Lann wrote on Jan 10th, 2017 at 9:13am:
Making progress. I like it.



Thanks Ben. Slow but steady. I knew the front of the doghouse was wrong on Roy's drawings, much too wide. I emailed a fellow at Airframe Rebuilders in the UK. Asked him about the front and if he could get someone to measure it sometime. He told me they didn't have a Hurri in the shop right now, but did send this.....I should be able to plot out the correct width from here.......
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Reply #273 - Jan 12th, 2017 at 12:48pm
 
You'll need to make your own plans by the end of the build.  Smiley  Looks like you have made every effort to be as scale as possible.
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Reply #274 - Jan 12th, 2017 at 2:19pm
 
Spoke to Roy about it, and in all fairness when he did his plans in '87 (re-drawn from Al Bently plans) no one had access to the real deal to check stuff. Unlikely he even saw a full size Hurricane, and the internet wasn't around to Google stuff!
Dog house is off, flaps are quite wrong, and wing fairings are much too large (look like they just copied the Spitfire fairings). When I get the one flight on it I'd like it to at least look right... Cheesy
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Reply #275 - Jan 12th, 2017 at 3:39pm
 
Fingers wrote on Jan 12th, 2017 at 2:19pm:
When I get the one flight on it I'd like it to at least look right... Cheesy


My approach exactly - with the way I fly, anything past the first flight is a bonus!  Wink Wink Wink
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Reply #276 - Jan 12th, 2017 at 4:06pm
 
Ahhhh bless Google - you know there's an answer out there, even if you can't remember the question Steve...
Found this answer to the 3 piece wing dilemma.
I felt/feel the one tube, behind the thickest part of the wing, is fraught with problems. "Fraught" had to look that word up, according to Wikikikikipediatrican "Will jump up and bite you in the ass!!"  Shocked
Guy in MAN used this on a 30% Skyraider and it works..think I can build this in...
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Reply #277 - Jan 17th, 2017 at 1:31pm
 
Here is one of the modified gear mounts in place. It's keyed to the innermost rib, and to the end rib (that's rib 5, on the left, if you're keeping track). The inner ends of the legs will be trimmed a bit, and of course, there will be lots of triangle stock and ply strengtheners put in. We are considering MY landings here.  Angry
The plans seem to show ply gussets top-to-bottom along each gear leg, between the ribs, hard to explain might do a cardboard mock up to look at...
This all looks right, have to think on it a bit before I mix epoxy... Huh
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Reply #278 - Jan 23rd, 2017 at 6:43am
 
This is one incredible build you got going here Sandy.  Great work, huge attention to detail.
You got my vote for pilot's choose.. Smiley
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Reply #279 - Jan 23rd, 2017 at 8:22am
 
Thank you kind sir! Just have to hope it doesn't weigh 35 pounds when done.. Cry
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Reply #280 - Jan 30th, 2017 at 5:12pm
 
Forming the top center sheeting to the wing. Lots of Windex but still not glued yet; I want to make absodeliciously sure that everything is done that needs to be here. 65 pieces at this point, and that does not account for the flaps under the center.... Undecided
Once upside down I set servo holes for the flaps, cut big frigging chunks out of some ribs so the gear will fit, sand this a tad, shape that a bit, curse and redo the other thing... Grin
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Reply #281 - Jan 31st, 2017 at 7:38pm
 
Sandy....you are putting in a heap of effort on this model, and the results are showing..  Good for you! 

Sydney Camm would be proud.
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Reply #282 - Jan 31st, 2017 at 8:11pm
 
Thank you Mike. Hurricane, Spitfire, Camm, Mitchell - those guys had a way with aircraft!

Center sheeted on top. Rough sand only, leading edge trimmed a bit to fit the fuse. Took too long to do, but I had to be sure  Huh  Likely some detail will jump up and smite me when I get underneath......
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Reply #283 - Feb 5th, 2017 at 4:38pm
 
I always have trouble with wing hold down bolts. All 3 holes (top, bottom, plate in fuse) never line up. I'm always toddling at the field trying to get the bolts in... Angry

This time I drilled all 3 plates at the same time, while I could get at everything. If I'd had a 1/4" tube I'd have used that, but didn't, so I just cut a bunch of blocks, drilled, then stacked them on the bolts while I glued the second wing plate in. Both holes line up on all 3 plates.... Raa Raa AND there is a solid hole through the wing.....
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Reply #284 - Feb 5th, 2017 at 4:51pm
 
Looking good Sandy.
Hope we'll see it this year.
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Reply #285 - Feb 5th, 2017 at 7:07pm
 
That is a good idea and give some anti-compression strength.
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Reply #286 - Feb 5th, 2017 at 7:43pm
 
Exactly what I was thinking Mark! Now I can tighten the bolts a bit more. And bonus, those  nylon bolts came back out after the glue dried!!!  Smiley
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Reply #287 - Feb 6th, 2017 at 4:10pm
 
One of those magic moments when you think something might actually be happening....big decision now is should I use blind nuts and bolts, or SM screws?
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Reply #288 - Feb 10th, 2017 at 2:37pm
 
OK, big important question - I need 5" wheels. Who/where?   I've seen them for up to $110 pair US$. Seems high.
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Reply #289 - Feb 10th, 2017 at 9:42pm
 
Fingers wrote on Feb 6th, 2017 at 4:10pm:
One of those magic moments when you think something might actually be happening....big decision now is should I use blind nuts and bolts, or SM screws?


those dreaded anchour nuts which tear out
aradite might help
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0....

if you dont want to pay thunderbolt prices
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Reply #290 - Feb 10th, 2017 at 11:27pm
 
Thanks Brian, but that's a link to a page of hard drives.....
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Reply #291 - Feb 11th, 2017 at 10:25am
 
Fingers wrote on Feb 10th, 2017 at 11:27pm:
Thanks Brian, but that's a link to a page of hard drives.....


https://www.amazon.ca/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=araldite+epoxy&tag=googcana-20&index=a...

my hard drive died
Undecided


this is what we used in the aircraft inductry in England in the 15th Century.
I suspect that it is far superior to
http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=113_241&prod...

someone needs to run a test
Al?
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Reply #292 - Feb 11th, 2017 at 10:30am
 
I shop at sdshobby. They have a 5in for $12us

http://www.sdshobby.com/rc-airplane-rc-airplane-pu-wheel-with-cnc-aluminum-hub-5...

Site a little slow to navigate but I have had good service with them
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Reply #293 - Feb 11th, 2017 at 10:52am
 
Thanks Mark...give them a try I guess.
Brian, a lot of us have been using Hysol for a long time, don't know who might do a comparison test, especially since we use it on critical places...
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Reply #294 - Feb 11th, 2017 at 1:34pm
 
You should have no issues. I did see a few types of 5in wheels. I spent a few hundred there today myself.
Also, Thunderboltrc has 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth in 5 yard rolls. 20% off. I picked up a few rolls along with cm6 spark plugs that were on sale.
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Reply #295 - Feb 11th, 2017 at 2:49pm
 
I did the wheel thing, thanks.

I ordered Thunderbolt's 3/4 cloth a while back. Good stuff
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Reply #296 - Feb 12th, 2017 at 4:34pm
 
WELL, I suppose it's always better to SNAFU by adding stuff that needn't be there, instead of taking stuff off that has to be there!!  Angry
Was talking to Roy about the wing fairing and he noted my wonderful planking job on the bottom. He sent me a pic of his fuse and it's not planked. He said the extra weight could add up to a pound by the time everything was balanced.....
crap
so I'm in the process of taking the planking off  Undecided
Easy fix, just stupid  Cry  Wall Bash Beating A Dead Horse Crappy Day Margaree Night Swear Word  So the learning process continues...
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Reply #297 - Feb 20th, 2017 at 8:40pm
 
And some more humour -  Angry 

In order to go on with the wing section I need to mount the gear. To mount the gear I need some 5" wheels for alignment.
According to EMS Express tracing, my wheels are somewhere between DONGGUANWULIUFENJU and my place  Shocked soooooooo I made some 5" wheels. While they'd be a tad rough on pavement, should be fine on grass. Plus, they'll work for aligning the gear and the wheel well liners......
After all, you only use them to get IN the air, then when landing - only 5% of the time.... Wink
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Reply #298 - Feb 20th, 2017 at 8:54pm
 
I am sadly disappointed that the manufacturers name (Woodyear) is not visible in your photo's. Please correct immediately. Cheesy
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Reply #299 - Feb 20th, 2017 at 9:09pm
 
So sorry, wheels were mis mounted. Both have Woodyear away from the camera. Will be rectified fifth with....

(that's a bit longer than forth with)

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Reply #300 - Feb 21st, 2017 at 11:52am
 
Jumpin' juniper fir sure Glen, it wood be yew making fun of my wheels! But oaky dokey, I went to take them off the axles to spruce them up, did my due diligence and found they should be Donelopped (I think that is the same as "Was circumcised"), not Woodyear or BF Woodrich.  Kiss  Wasn't aware the Brits were overly concerned about that stuff, but.......
So poopy.

As an aside, wooden you know it, I now have a copy of the manual for proper application of Hurricane colours and markings. Copies available  Smiley
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Reply #301 - Feb 21st, 2017 at 12:51pm
 
Wheel wells in production. 5.5" OD tube. When balsa comes off it will spring back out a bit and should be easy to fit in the wells.
As an aside, the Hurricane didn't have the wells sheeted as close as we tend to do, too much junk in there that had to be worked on...We like to keep the junk, like mud and grass, out of our wells...
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Reply #302 - Feb 21st, 2017 at 5:34pm
 
Surprised the wheels haven't arrived. I mine arrived last Friday. Thought we ordered the same day.

Marc
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Reply #303 - Feb 21st, 2017 at 6:33pm
 
Yeh Marc, but you spent a lot more than I did....
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Reply #304 - Feb 22nd, 2017 at 6:45pm
 
Wheels came today Marc, so onward and upward....
Interesting (to me) little tidbit - I was wondering, way ahead of time, about paint schemes for this beast. Likely be a later plane so the Dark Green and medium Sea Grey seems like a fit ( and different from all the Sewage and Silage ) planes at our field.  THEN I began to wonder about "A" and "B" schemes, and how the two patterns worked.
Come to find out, on Hurricanes at least, the "B" pattern was dropped in January '41, so that makes things easier....
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Reply #305 - Feb 24th, 2017 at 4:27pm
 
Scary moment, but parts sitting up on gear! Still require copious quantities of epoxy on the blind nuts, cause once things are buttoned up, they are buttoned up! On this part of the wing, still need inner flaps and servo, air tank, plumbing, and start the mechanical structure for the 3 piece wing...then sheet bottom. But in the interim, I can use this much for the wing fairings....

I have a blog site set up for the naysayers to post their ruminations on me and my landing gear experiences.....
www.ireallydontgiveapoopingdump.org ;   Blue Mooning Egyptian Dancer Thank You Loyal Fans

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Reply #306 - Feb 24th, 2017 at 6:31pm
 
That's progress, Sandy! Looks great standing up on her own.

Makes me keen to get back to work - been wanting to do a road trip all winter. May have to head to island tomorrow for paint.
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Reply #307 - Feb 24th, 2017 at 7:01pm
 
Head to Cdn Tire for paint Steve. With gas you don't need special stuff, rattle cans will work fine. Take something with you to match the can cover - close enough..?
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Reply #308 - Mar 15th, 2017 at 10:55am
 
And now there's an engine for the Hurricane and Spit...

http://www.pace-engines.com/index.php?ID=55
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Reply #309 - Nov 5th, 2017 at 3:11pm
 
All Right now!! I'm back.  Thank You Loyal Fans  Glen is taking odds on how long I keep at it this time...

Starting to fit the 1/32 ply saddles. Because of the steep curve at the front, I'm wetting and clamping before gluing...
These are Roy's saddles, and I think they are way too large for a Hurricane. He put what looks like Spitfire saddles on the plane. As best I can work from his plans these things are much too wide, but they fit the wing trailing edge and fuse so I have to go with them for a while. I guess I don't have the imagination to make the mod off the plane, so once these two pieces are on, I'll flip the fuse and work from that side. Hopefully I can adjust the curve from fuse to wing so it won't look too Spittish (!). Sorry Mike, nothing against Spit's but......well, you know.. Trash Talk
Also, he has the front of the saddle, from the middle clamp to the front, filled with body fill! Now I'm not as familiar with the stuff as maybe Todd is, but that stuff is heavy!  Angry Gonna have to figure out a better way to fill the curve....
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Reply #310 - Nov 5th, 2017 at 6:08pm
 
Can you say microballoons and epoxy?  Wink
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Reply #311 - Nov 7th, 2017 at 11:53am
 
Since the top down view of Roy's plan seems close, the problem, as I see it, is in the concave of the saddle. Spit's had big sweeping shallow curves while Hurri's came more down then bent to the wing... Huh Sign
Guess I'm going to just recurve the sheet metal....you can see (hopefully) what I'm going to sand out of the gussets that form the curve. The back gusset, in the second photo, has already got the steeper curve. The one I show yet to be sanded goes at former 5 where I have it placed for show and tell, then there's another at 4. From the back, up to 4 is sheeting, then Roy gets to body fill/micro balloon stuffy.
Maybe, with the right soft 1/16 sheeting, I can get it to bend enough to use it instead of bf/mb. At least I can fill the space with 1/4 stock as filler  Wall Bash Time to Build
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Reply #312 - Nov 7th, 2017 at 8:10pm
 
OK! The template from the plans isn't quite right, but once I get the bend set in I can trim and poke and prod and rebend  Beating A Dead Horse and get something close to what I want. What isn't apparent from the template was I think the top of this sheet has to be curved at the back end, to allow wrapping around the bottom of the fuse.  Huh Sign again!
Nothing glued. Just have to get a curve in the pieces so I can start fitting.
Fiddledit and Fuddleduddle. Swear Word What Was That
Don't know if it's obvious, but the faring does have a much sharper curve than the spit..
I hope
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Reply #313 - Nov 9th, 2017 at 12:00am
 

Quote:
Starting to fit the 1/32 ply saddles. Because of the steep curve at the front, I'm wetting and clamping before gluing...
These are Roy's saddles, and I think they are way too large for a Hurricane. He put what looks like Spitfire saddles on the plane. As best I can work from his plans these things are much too wide, but they fit the wing trailing edge and fuse so I have to go with them for a while. I guess I don't have the imagination to make the mod off the plane, so once these two pieces are on, I'll flip the fuse and work from that side. Hopefully I can adjust the curve from fuse to wing so it won't look too Spittish (!). Sorry Mike, nothing against Spit's but......well, you know.. Trash Talk



No worries.  Good on you for noticing the inaccuracy.  Attention to detail is a good thing.





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Reply #314 - Nov 9th, 2017 at 4:18pm
 
OPINION TIME!!!!!!!!!
Not that I'm going to necessarily take anyone's opinion, but.....
pic 1 and 2 show the curve of the saddle on a real honest to goodyness Hurricane.... and pic 3 is the ply base for the saddle from the plans..The ply seat that is there is per plan, the black line is what, to me, looks gooder.....ideas?  Help Me Anyone Thanks
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Reply #315 - Nov 9th, 2017 at 4:53pm
 
The black line does look "gooder" sandy, except I believe you've swept it out too far at the rear, like the spit.  Closer to the fuse side in the rear is my vote.
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Reply #316 - Nov 9th, 2017 at 5:04pm
 
Thanks Al, and I agree, almost.  Undecided Unfortunately, the back of the wing is set up for this wider fairing. Tip of the fair meets the end of the flat on the trailing edge. To me, the only way is to keep the "plan view", which seems to match top down down 3 views I have.
Making the concave more caver (?) with the narrower base up front, shallow fair down back........
OR I can rebuild the back of the wing LOLOLOL  Angry

Does any of that make sense??? Shocked
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Reply #317 - Nov 9th, 2017 at 6:24pm
 
Just eyeball it and do what looks best.  We won't tell.
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Reply #318 - Nov 9th, 2017 at 8:00pm
 
Kinda hard to judge from the photo. But looking at the real vs model pics, I think the rear filet needs to ride higher on the fuse. This would also lessen the sharpness of the curve into the wing.

M
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Reply #319 - Nov 9th, 2017 at 8:11pm
 
Yup and Yup.
Looking at the thing, I might be able to move the back in a bit like Al suggests.....and yes, might be able to pick the back of the fillet up a bit...
Cheesy
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Reply #320 - Nov 10th, 2017 at 3:49pm
 
OK! I can fix the trailing edge of the wing, not too bad there, so I did cut the whole seat back in a bit, to make it NOT fair out so far ala Spit. (Dunno what this world is coming to where I actually listen to Eastman's ideas OMG!)  Grin
Marc, I checked other views I have (why do they so seldom take pics of the right side of the aircraft???) That does seem to be where the filet rides, and where it ends. There's a hatch on the right side, and the bottom of the filet stops about right relative to the hatch...the sweep up has to stop before the fabric  Undecided
I'm stuck now, so this is what It will be..taking material off is always easier than putting material back on...only Mike, now Marc, and I will ever question those fairings, and we know we're correct.  Pic attached, don't know if clearly shows the change...
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Reply #321 - Nov 17th, 2017 at 10:15pm
 
This is what I did, so this is correct. Standard military FUBAR.
If that sounds a bit rigid, it's because the other side is pretty close to this side  Angry so we takes it.
Plans show for the front to be filled with body putty, and Glen has suggested epoxy and micro balloons. I like the mb idea, but first will fill some of the area with triangle stock...just because balsa is lighter than epoxy... Undecided
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Reply #322 - Nov 18th, 2017 at 9:34am
 
looking good sandy.
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Reply #323 - Dec 10th, 2017 at 9:20pm
 
OK! Three piece wing needs a wing tube! Well there is another way, but I'm not sure about the engineering involved.  Undecided
I acquired a 1" diam (that's 2.54cm to you modern guys) CF tube, courtesy of the generosity of Mrs. Miller, whose pink shower curtains now lay on the bathroom floor beside the tub. Thank you GWS!  Raa Raa
A one inch tube requires a socket, into through witch  Shocked one slides the tube whence assembling the pieces of subject wing. Mrs. Miller's Mr. Miller and I measured the wing, from rib 7 through to rib 7, at 44 inches. A cursory trip through the web/net/google/yahoo leads me to belive no-one sells sockets at 44 inches. And if they did the cost of getting it here would be yuge, bigly, and ginormous.
Mr. Cool talked me through the process: secure CF tube; wrap said CF tube with 2 layers of wax paper; wrap fiber glass cloth around the tube with lots of epoxy/resin. Once cured, remove CF tube from wax paper; remove wax paper from inside the fiber glass socket. EASY  Grin Roll Eyes
Removing tube wasn't bad. Removing wax paper from INSIDE the new socket, another story....
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Reply #324 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 7:54am
 
The wax paper removal is always the fun part. The tube looks great! I hope I didn't steer you wrong with the two raps.  That's what I always did and it worked great.
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Reply #325 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 4:47pm
 
Don't you just love it when something comes out right??? I think I would, if that ever happened  Cry.

Actually, the wing tube socket did just that!! Tube slid out of the socket/wax paper thingy with little effort. Then used long needle nose pliers to get in the tube a bit and untwist the WP wrap stuck to the resin inside.....Unfortunately this technique only goes so far, and that's not as far as the other end of the tube. So, to make it easier, almost easy, I knew the lengths I needed for the tube - center and 2 outside wing panels. Cut the socket into three, and unwound the WP wrap in three different tubes.  Huh Sign
And, dare I say AND (!!!) the tube slides through the sockets as slick as **** through a goose. Cheesy No play, but no push either....This might work.  Now I'll slide the sockets back on the tube and clean up the rough stuff, but inside fits.  Raa Raa
Thank you Al kind sir.
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Reply #326 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 5:43pm
 
There you go Sandy, looks usable.
BTW, I thought we weren't going to discuss where the cf rod came from  Roll Eyes
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Reply #327 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 9:24pm
 
Don't see any discussion. Monologue maybe, discussion no.

Besides, Mrs. Miller doesn't read these pages does she? Ipso, not going to see where the shower curtain rod went... Fun Bat
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Reply #328 - Dec 12th, 2017 at 11:38am
 
Sandy after many years of building high power rockets with composite materials; including making tubes 1.5 to 4 inches in diameter, vacuum bagging & laminating with fiber glass, Kevlar (bugger to work with BTW) and carbon fiber. Wax paper is the not a great release material, parchment paper and car wax are the most economical and effective materials I found. Parchment paper has a silicone component that prevents resin from curing to it. Better material than wax paper to put on bench as a barrier when using epoxy too.
Getting a cured tube off a composite mandrel can be a task, certainly harder that using an aluminum mandrel that can be thrown in the freezer and the difference in contraction between the two materials usually makes removal from the mandrel a heck of a lot easier!
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Reply #329 - Dec 12th, 2017 at 11:44am
 
Thanks Greg. All good info. This is really what this build is about - new ideas. I'm sure some guys newer to the hobby read my prolonged nattering and think "jeez do they really do that kind of thing?"
Course, others read it and think "wish the bugger would shut up and finish the darn plane.."
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Reply #330 - Dec 14th, 2017 at 4:15pm
 
K! Tube slid in the center section "just" to be sure it fits and surely does. Other two tubes will be build into the outer panels as they are built. I "think"  Huh it's wise to have this center part ready to go so everything can be lined up and true.....
The external diameter of the socket is 1.02", so the cloth and resin aren't very thick at all. But that .02" is more than the tolerances in my set of Forstner bits. SO..
Dug in my father's old tool box and found his 1940's era hole cutter. Fully adjustable, cutter from a metal lathe, fits a pillar drill..so I'm going to make a bunch of doublers for either side of the ribs. Hole will be just large enough to take the socket, one either side of each rib..1/8 ply should do the job..
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Reply #331 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 2:16am
 
I found running the cutter backwards works best. Forwards it just digs in ....
Nice work sandy... maybe flitetest will have a hurri soon. Then off to dollarama... Huhy
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Reply #332 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 8:52am
 
Thanks Brian, I'll give the backwards a try.. Smiley

But there's still no hurry for the Hurri...
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Reply #333 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 11:14am
 
Never heard about turning an adjustable circle cutter backwards. I use the same cutter to cut plywood for round bulkheads using a large drill press turning at a moderate rpm rate and have not had an issues with the cutter digging in so long as the material being cut is securely held down. If the material being cut is not big enough to clamp to the drill press table I have used a piece of laminate floor as a backer/holder and stuck the material to be cut to this, using 2 sided carpet tape. It will usually hold onto plywood long enough to cut the circle but it sticks to the laminate floor piece or any smooth surface material like sh*t to a wool blanket Smiley
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Reply #334 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 12:26pm
 
Greg..... Wink
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Reply #335 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 7:46pm
 
Dilemma time: If you look at the picture of the socket tube in the center section, you can see above the tube another set of holes through the ribs. Now those holes are closer to the center of lift of the foil. It would be nice to have the wing tube located in those holes, further forward. But, as you can see, the wheels block off anything going through those holes.
If I use those holes, My wing tube only grabs 2 ribs, about 7 inches, in the center section. Using the holes I show, I can run the tube all the way through.
So question: Can I get away with the front holes (7") either side, or am I better using the back holes and being behind the center of force..................
This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good Beating A Dead Horse
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Reply #336 - Dec 16th, 2017 at 4:09pm
 
Easy peazy.....making the doubler disks will be piece of cake...and not a sign of "dig in"!
Now make a bunch of them, and shape them ti fit the rib. I think Hysol is the adhesive of choice
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Reply #337 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 9:36am
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 16th, 2017 at 4:09pm:
Easy peazy.....making the doubler disks will be piece of cake...and not a sign of "dig in"!
Now make a bunch of them, and shape them ti fit the rib. I think Hysol is the adhesive of choice



haha Hysol is the only thing I recognize from the past 10 posts...  Anyone well that and curtain rod.  Shower Surprise  Keep up the great work Sandy, I am still enjoying the thread after 5 years and counting!  This is Good
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Reply #338 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 2:58pm
 
To quote the very first comment on this thread

"OK guys, here we go, slowly, deathly slowly, snore"  Angry

u ben warned!!

Another group of informed builders (and Colin) suggested I use two tubes in both sets of rib holes. More than enough to take any strain from the weight...good anti rotation pins front and back, lag bolt holding things together.  Smiley
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Reply #339 - Dec 20th, 2017 at 2:58pm
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 18th, 2017 at 2:58pm:
To quote the very first comment on this thread

"OK guys, here we go, slowly, deathly slowly, snore"  Angry

u ben warned!!

Another group of informed builders (and Colin) suggested I use two tubes in both sets of rib holes. More than enough to take any strain from the weight...good anti rotation pins front and back, lag bolt holding things together.  Smiley


Yes Sandy I am still hurt you didn't respond to my well articulated facebook jab  Grin
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Reply #340 - Dec 20th, 2017 at 9:32pm
 
Your zinger zinged right by Ben.  lol  Or he ignored it,  take your pick.
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Reply #341 - Dec 20th, 2017 at 10:01pm
 
So very sorry Ben. Was there a well articulated FB jab? Don't know quite how I missed it since articulation is not high on the list of so many posters to that genre, including myself.  Huh "Well articulated" should jump right off the screen!! Undecided
Usually you're going on and on about  "The Glorious Game" or "Delightful Game" or how Liverpool trounced Manchester, or else F1 is in play......my feeble mind tends to glaze over when those topics pop up so I would n't recognize any jab, articulated or not.....
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Reply #342 - Dec 21st, 2017 at 10:33am
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 20th, 2017 at 10:01pm:
So very sorry Ben. Was there a well articulated FB jab? Don't know quite how I missed it since articulation is not high on the list of so many posters to that genre, including myself.  Huh "Well articulated" should jump right off the screen!! Undecided
Usually you're going on and on about  "The Glorious Game" or "Delightful Game" or how Liverpool trounced Manchester, or else F1 is in play......my feeble mind tends to glaze over when those topics pop up so I would n't recognize any jab, articulated or not.....


I'll forgive you this time  Smiley And no Liverpool doesn't ever beat United.
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Reply #343 - Dec 21st, 2017 at 1:03pm
 
Just Shelburne and Yarmouth eh?
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Reply #344 - Dec 29th, 2017 at 8:00pm
 
Don't think they have a team.
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Reply #345 - Jan 18th, 2018 at 4:51pm
 
Field sports aside, after dinking around with some indoor foam meat trays, I'm back at the wing.
(bout freakin' time the chorus mutters)
. What Was That
Cut out a buncha circles, the diameter of the socket tube. The dire consequences predicted by Mr. Hatchett happened not - neat circles. Also, I managed to avoid hitting myself with the bar of the cutter whilst it spun. To support both claims, I present a pic of the panel from which I cut the circles. Notice, no ripping around the holes, and no blood. The other side of the panel is classified and restricted! The panel will now be cut into the requesite 36 squares which can be customized according to what I need where I need them.
As a complete aside, this process created 36 Tuits of 1/8 lite ply, each with a small hole centered; diam about 1.025". Some I will keep for obvious reasons, but there are a few available to members. First come first serve - extremely valuable item for your shop! Beating A Dead Horse
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Reply #346 - Jan 18th, 2018 at 6:44pm
 
Thats a lot of round tuit's Roll Eyes
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Reply #347 - Jan 18th, 2018 at 8:03pm
 
Yes it is. I need to save a bunch of them, but there will be some available to others with the same problem... Huh
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Reply #348 - Jan 19th, 2018 at 6:46am
 
I just got a fresh supply of round tuit's from Hobby King. They were on sale so I'm good. Cool
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Reply #349 - Jan 19th, 2018 at 8:10am
 
China hobby Line usually has a good price as well..
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Reply #350 - Jan 22nd, 2018 at 12:40pm
 
The concave isn't deep enough, or sharp enough, but it's what we get! Lot's of blending and sanding, but a start, or re-start.... Angry
Once the bottom of the wing is sheeted I can finish wrapping the curve under the fuse...Plans show a LOT of body fill, which I think can be replaced with balsa block..
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Reply #351 - Feb 4th, 2018 at 4:40pm
 
Now I have to start thinking (?) in 3D.  Help Me The outer rib gets jigged up 5" on the front spar, to account for the 6 1/5 deg dihedral. But the back of the end rib gets twisted up to give 2 deg washout.
So best to lay the spars and get the washout in, then block up the panel to get the inner rib leaned in to 6 1/2 deg..  Huh Sign And sometime  those ply dihedral braces will be cut away from the center (it's part of the one piece wing scenario).
The more I fiddle with those those thin ply pieces the more I'm sure they aren't right. The cuts in those braces tilt rib #6 the wrong way. Since they really only apply to the one l piece wing I might just take them out..
You can't relly see it, but the back spar has to be re-positioned and the ribs modified. Roy has the spar set to make the flaps 5 inches at the center section, should be 3 inches. So the spar has to be swept back to a uniform 3" from TE.
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Reply #352 - Feb 19th, 2018 at 8:29pm
 
OK. Got thinking about using an aluminum blade spar in the wing, like they do in Europe, so Glen dug through his supply and found me 2 nice pieces which Mr. Cool then helped me shape sp I now have pieces 14 1/4" long by 1 inch deep. Then my mind not only wandered, but disappeared totally for a while. Realized that the blade would stick out either side of the wing center section by 10" each side. Potential for disaster is yuge. So worked out a way to make the spar removable from both sides.
Also, finally gave up idea of making the break at the scale location. My chances of building something that would key around the landing gear plates is less than nil. So break moves out 1 rib to non scale location.  Sad SNAFU.
I have to have the outer wing panel flat on the board so I can work on the washout, plus I have to have it built kind of attached to the center section or I'll never get it aligned.
SO, I made a jig that jacks up one end of the center section 2 1/4". The other end of the center will  then become square to the table ( see right angle). The jig keeps everything level front to back (measured yea!!).
I made boxes for the two aluminum spars, each is 14 1/4 inches long. The boxes, as you will see some year, carry the spar, and are glued into the outer panels and center.
Skip down a few sections to see that in action.
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Reply #353 - Mar 5th, 2018 at 4:32pm
 
Next step. Finished what was required on the center section, including adding the left and right outer panels to just past the gear. The dihedral break is now included in the center section.  Angry
I left the center in place and made a new rib for the end of the outer panel, made antirotation pins, and started the right outer panel from there.  Huh Sign
Roy says this plane NEEDS washout or it's prone to falling from the sky  Undecided (now I find out) at slower speeds,
like when I'm landing
.  So center section level, making new inside rib level. Bottom spar laid down, outer rib jigged and frigged to put 2 deg washout in...that's 3/16 inch. Starting to lay ribs in, from the outer end towards the center. Notice the wax paper between the new rib and the center section. Otherwise I'd just wind up gluing the out panel to the center blah blah blah. Hit Palm
The blue items are small welders magnets - love them. They keep things like ribs vertical, and if you use 2 per rib, you can hold the rib on the bottom spar nice and snug while the glue dries....$10 at PA for 8 of them...
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Reply #354 - Mar 5th, 2018 at 8:29pm
 
How wide are the weld magnets? Looks like a good tool.
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Reply #355 - Mar 5th, 2018 at 10:06pm
 
Marc, the blue ones are 2 x 2.5. In the background is a red one 4 x 4. I find them great little items. Have some weight, but aren't heavy.
Welder's Room at PA.
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Reply #356 - Mar 15th, 2018 at 9:44pm
 
Don't ya just hate it when you find an error and it's not your own... Angry The laser cut pieces don't fit each other.... Huh Sign
Bottom of the Rudder Post is about 1/4" longer than the trailing edge pieces make up to. Was noticed 3 years ago when assembled, but didn't make a heap until the anti spin sub fin is put on - the slope was way off.
Glued on a piece; lots of sanding; some filling; slope still not really right so needs some more sanding but closer...almost there boss.
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Reply #357 - Mar 16th, 2018 at 5:24am
 
Your getting there Sandy.  Looking good!
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Reply #358 - Mar 16th, 2018 at 5:38am
 
Fix looks good
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Reply #359 - Mar 29th, 2018 at 3:20pm
 
OK, back to the spars!!! I'm tired of the 3 piece wing saga, so I'm sure you are too. I assured myself there was enough clearance for the spar box outside of rib 7, so onward.
Made a new end rib for the center, so now the spar box is fit in, cut at the joint where the panel meets the center. The aluminum blade slides in and out easily. I'll make shear webs to fit between the box and the HW spars on the outer panels, and plywood gussets to fit around the box at the 3 ribs.
In the center, plywood gussets and triangular stock around everything.
Once the top HW spar and everything else is glued in, where it sits, I'll check the washout measurement again and sheet the top of the wing.
Then flip and do other side.
This  Swear Word has had me stalled for over a year. Tons of ideas but no one has done the 3 piece with this plane. Some other outside stuff got fixed in early March so maybe the brain will function again.. Angry
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Reply #360 - Apr 2nd, 2018 at 7:50pm
 
And Voila (that's French for "It's friggin' well about time") I have a wing panel up in the air. Haven't tried yet to take it off the center section, that's a challenge for another day  Cheesy
I'll take it off and re-jig it. As soon as I get my leading edge material I can put that on and sheet the top. Ton's of stuff to do from unber neath. While I'm doing that, I can jig up the center section the other way, and repeat for the left wing panel......
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Reply #361 - Apr 5th, 2018 at 3:45pm
 
Nothing glued, just cut first piece of sheeting for angle, and laid another to take a look. Starting to almost look like something familiar, but been sooooo long.. Embarrassed
Can't remember what part of a ship I'm working on.
I will lay the pieces out and glue them into a single sheet. PVA glue, lots of plastic tape to hold things together...will make for a nice hull.  Smiley
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Reply #362 - Apr 10th, 2018 at 2:39pm
 
Rough cut some sheeting, then taped them all together. Laid them out upside down, and glued all the seams with PVA. Always thought that trailing edge was fragile, so after I "banged" it,  Cry,  I laid a piece of CF strip along it.
I removed the center section so I could overlap the edges, re-checked the washout jigging, and glued on top sheeting for one panel. Not having the requisite bean bags, I used about 30 old MAN magazines for weight. Result not too awful. Panel still slides on the spar to the center, AND slides back off  Smiley. I realize the pic shows the panel NOT tight against the center...with nothing to shove on from the outer end I didn't push it too hard.
I do know the Vegas odds for me ever getting this far were in the area of 4,372 to 1. Mr. Mosher, who had some faith in me, wins based on his wager... Raa Raa Thank You Loyal Fans.  Odds for the next 3 sides go up exponentially..
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Reply #363 - Apr 10th, 2018 at 4:05pm
 
Looks like a wing!  Good job!
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Reply #364 - Apr 10th, 2018 at 6:45pm
 
Thanks Ben. About 2/3 of a wing counting the center panel...Once I decided on the "how", doing isn't too bad.
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Reply #365 - Apr 10th, 2018 at 7:59pm
 
No Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore. And no, this thing isn't a kit.  Undecided

Attached pic is a wing tip; there are 2 of them, and amazingly they are both 1.40 oz.  Egyptian Dancer

Also attached pic, each tip is 6 layers, to be glued and shaped. 6 x 1/4" = 1 1/2 inches. End of wing panel = 1 10/16". So I have to thin down the sheeting at the tip, or add to the pieces
So, since I'm thickening the assorted pieces to match the end of the panel, I might as well make the thickener out of plywood to strengthen the tip, because this stuff is soft.
Wall Bash
On the bright side, this does give lots of room to remove some material from the middle sheets; all in the interest of weight reduction (or at least offset the plywood).
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Reply #366 - Jun 4th, 2018 at 2:17pm
 
OK, obviously there is a centre section missing here. But, outer panels sheeted on top, ailerons need cap stripping on top etc etc etc. Once the aileron shape is final I can sand and gouge and plane the tips, then attach them. Leading edge of entire wing needs sanding, gouging, planing....
But underneath - servos, servos and more servos. I think it's best to have servo on each flap section..
each outer panel will have aileron servo and flap servo, centre section will have 2 flap servos...SBUS here we come.
Trick will be to get the 4 flap servos reasonably close in action.
Almost starting to begin to look like something, just not sure what.
I'm going to use robart hinge pins so it's not a problem, but plans show ailerons top hinged with dubro pinned flat hinges, but the wing has a HW spar. Not sure how to slit the HW.
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Reply #367 - Jun 4th, 2018 at 8:29pm
 
With a great planes hinge slotting machine :
https://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr4010.php
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Reply #368 - Jun 4th, 2018 at 9:58pm
 
Yup, that'll work....or my version of the same thing...
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Reply #369 - Jun 9th, 2018 at 12:18pm
 
And you guys think I'M nuts..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c47kn_Y4y8A&feature=share

Holy smackin' crud Batman.
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Reply #370 - Jun 10th, 2018 at 1:01am
 
So awesome and so sad at the same time 😳
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Reply #371 - Jun 10th, 2018 at 12:00pm
 
Fingers wrote on Jun 9th, 2018 at 12:18pm:
And you guys think I'M nuts..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c47kn_Y4y8A&feature=share

Holy smackin' crud Batman.


This is another nice one from the guy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiEiMoQWygg
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Reply #372 - Jun 10th, 2018 at 1:14pm
 
And here i think my SBach scheme is too hard to replace so I'm thinking of just going straight lines.... Angry

Love to know what he uses for masking tape
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Reply #373 - Jun 11th, 2018 at 9:12am
 
Fingers wrote on Jun 10th, 2018 at 1:14pm:
And here i think my SBach scheme is too hard to replace so I'm thinking of just going straight lines.... Angry

Love to know what he uses for masking tape


I agree with you.  Although, I am curious how much is down to technique.  The lettering was so crisp.
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Reply #374 - Oct 28th, 2018 at 8:30pm
 
Sigh snore, back at it..... What Was That Naaah
Flap time. 3 panels each side, plans show 2 but with the 3 piece wing the main flap is split. So 3/32 balsa laminated between 2 pieces 1/64 ply. These raw pieces have no flex. Next I'll cover the flaps with .75oz glass cloth, inside and out, THEN I'll put the ribs on, 20 odd ribs. Per side.

Doing it this way because the thought of trying to glass around and over a bunch of ribs...well I don't have a hope in hell to get that right.

3 servos for the flaps - 1 center and 1 each panel.
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Reply #375 - Dec 31st, 2018 at 1:55pm
 
And here are a bunch of ribs sandwiched in a ply jig. Easy to sand on the vertical sander so they're all the same. If I run out can easily sand some more..
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Reply #376 - Jan 15th, 2019 at 4:33pm
 
OK. Flaps sections are hinged. Was going to use Robart hinge pins but I never have good luck with those, so Dubro HD it is.
Flaps are ribbed and hinged and reliefs for the hinges are on the wing panels. I guess a servo in each outer panel, and I have a 1/4 scale servo for the center - 3 pieces can run from 1 servo.

Also, I cut out 2 stimulated wheel covers for fitting. I don't know if I'll leave the piece that runs off at 60 deg and covers a drag link on the real plane. By reports it is fiddley to get hinged right so if I can't come up with the geometry I'll take that piece off. The actual flaps will be made from either 1/66 aluminium or heavy lithoplate.
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Reply #377 - Jan 20th, 2019 at 4:52pm
 
The "large" Robart air tank is large. No where to fit the thing. Courtesy of my cupboard, and Mr. Cool, found my self with 2 small tanks. Easy fiddledit in the wing.
Since I won't be contesting this thing  Wooo Weee  with all the manouvers like "gear down slow pass" "gear down try again" I only need air for
gear up
or
"gear down"
.

I think I can run the flaps from the 1 Hitec HD servo (250 oz/in),  either torque rods with universal joint of some kind or CF sheet tongues.
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Reply #378 - Jan 29th, 2019 at 4:32pm
 
Waiting for steering arms and 3/32 rod for torque rod on the flaps.  What Was That
So I used a piece of clear plastic sheet and made a sort of see-through template of the front sheeting piece around the gear.  Huh Sign Some fiddling to make the fit right and I'll glue a second sheet to this, then cut the wheel wheel out. Once I know where that is fur sure I'll make liners for the well. Real plane didn't line the well, but with our dirty fields I think it's better to do it.
ANNND once the wells are cut out the wheel covers can be made....bit oversize.
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Reply #379 - Jan 30th, 2019 at 7:16pm
 
Looking good Sandy!
Sounds like my project; work a while, stop because I need a part, order part, spend money, rinse and repeat.
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Reply #380 - Jan 30th, 2019 at 10:03pm
 
Made up the forward sheet for the bottom center. The holes will be enlarged later. In the shot of the single gear, right at the rear bolt is the break in the Hurricane wing. Not where I'm breaking my wing I might add...I'm out 1 bay.  Huh Sign
But, with no break at the right place, I get a compound curve in the sheeting. Pffffft. Right now the sheeting is pinned and lying there with ammonia and lots of weight to try and bend the sheet around...

If you look closely at the "bottom sheet" you can see the outline of the wheel cover.
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Reply #381 - Jan 31st, 2019 at 7:08pm
 
And here are dummy covers lying in place for "gotta see this" purposes. Covers will be made of either litho or flashing material from my local home improvement depot...With a reflex in the covers they should close up flush to the surface  This is Good
I have a small piece of aluminum that would make 1 set of standoffs, need to \scrounge another
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Reply #382 - Apr 14th, 2019 at 3:21pm
 
OK, I've thought on this for a while (yes Glen, a looong time) Nah To You. Going to the 3 piece wing complicated the flaps a lot. What had been 4 flap panels has become 5, with 3 of them in the center section. I could have used 5 servos but didn't have the $$$$ so I'm trying this.
Mocked up so we can see it, and think about it. Yes Al,  it's likely over thought and over engineered  Gossip. Now for the pundits to kick in  Anyone.
All the ribs in the center section have a 1 5/8" hole, and those holes are lined up. I made a bunch of 1 5/8" ply disks, cut some copper tubing to act as bushings (I wanted bearings but Al said no  Smiley). I threaded the 5/32 rod, five nylon 5/32 nose gear steering arms, and the ply disks into the right sequence, stuck the disks into the rib holes, and Voila as the French say. I have a single torque rod, actuated by a 1/4 scale servo in there that I have to get mounted so it's removable, and the 1 servo will run the 5 flap pieces.
The outer wing panels each have their own servo.
Have at it guys.
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Reply #383 - May 18th, 2019 at 2:54pm
 
Feeling bit off today, so tried another item.....Kinda satisfying to see something covered, but not sure this is the correct fabric.
This is Super Coverite, and I'm wondering if it might be "too" finished for the Hurricane fabric. I know Phil Clark says that you shouldn't really see the grain of the fabric after the plane is painted. This stuff will certainly ensure that!
Iron on fabrics is getting hard to find since the demise of Solartex. What was Oracoat is available again from some places.
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Reply #384 - Feb 3rd, 2020 at 9:40pm
 
Well, it's only been 8 or 9 months.....what's the hurry?

All that aside, I'm back at it. Made a few decisions that might let me finish this thing. Firstly...

The Machine guns! Since this will be a MKIIc, it needs the huge honking machine guns off the wings. I spent a lot of time (way too much) trying to get info on the Hispano machine guns. I kinda wanted them to look kinda like they should (at 10 feet). I have the War Department Technical Manual for the guns; lots of pictures, lots of stuff, but didn't have dimensions, any. The Technical Manual tells me how to take the thing apart, oilk it. load it, sight it, but no dimensions. Finally, I got a nice note from the Curator of the Duxford museum, and he sent me a rough sketch of the barrel, with sizes. Off we go. A modeller from FB offered to make the guns, and sent me a very fine prototype so I ordered them, asking only that he make the gun an inch longer, on the back end. Package arrived, he added to inch in the wrong direction and over wrote the recoil springs......blah blah blah......' Wall Bash  First pic is his prototype file.

Anyway, I sat down and made 4 machine guns. Certainly not perfect, but they are 10 foot stand off scale so they will work.......even have the mount figured out.

Bit of cleaning up, and the bases have to be painted yet, but ...

And yes, Glen has told me to stop dithering over tiny details (I think the word he used was obsessing)  Margaree Night Beating A Dead Horse
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Reply #385 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 8:49pm
 
Having made the wing 3 pieces, with aluminum spar, I was left with how i was going to fix the outer panels so they wouldn't slide off. All the torsion and shear is taken by the spar, is just the slide off that's of concern..

Many different methods out there, but most of them involved something through the top of the wing. Then I found Merlyn Wing locks, on RCScaleBuilder site. They are used a lot on large sailplanes and do the job nicely. I was just getting into making them from the Tutorial page on the site, when lo and behold they popped up on the site's list of 3D Printer files.

Greg Hatt made some prototypes from the file, we looked at them and thought about it, and he made 4 locks from PETg. I guess this is one of the stronger plastics.

Bingo. Work right some nice, and the hole in underneath the wing. Run a bolt up with a ball driver and it's done. Loosen with the driver and if the bolt stays inside, use a magnet on a rod.
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Reply #386 - Feb 16th, 2020 at 1:17pm
 
Of course the leading edge on the wing has to be drilled for the cannons. And of course the leading edge isn't 90deg to the center line of the plane...it has a 4 deg sweep. Angry

I bored a small piece of pine with the .75" Forstner bit, with the pillar drill bed tilted 4deg.  Thank You Loyal Fans Clamped to the LE, this "should"  Wall Bash Beating A Dead Horse  point my cannons in the correct direction..

Of course the one I have poking here would  be inset about 1 1/4 inch

As usual, I'll think on this for a bit  Roll Eyes........before I bore into the wing..... Cheesy
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Reply #387 - Feb 17th, 2020 at 2:46pm
 
OK, ignore the fact that wing is upside down in the fuse..... Angry  I just need a cradle to hold things while I took a look.... Wink

They came out better than I'd hoped, and using several references, totally TLAR. Since the cannons will be held in place by rare earth magnets in sockets behind the LE. they are removable for transport, plus I can work on maybe replacing them later.  Roll Eyes

Now I can put the retract lines on the gear, set up flap servos and sheet the bottom...then sand, and sand, and sand...
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Reply #388 - Feb 18th, 2020 at 12:17pm
 
Those look great Sandy!
I really like the rare earth magnet mount idea.
Worthy updates to the saga known as HurricaneMkII Grin

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Reply #389 - Feb 18th, 2020 at 12:25pm
 
Thanks Greg. The magnet idea is Glen's, but despite that I think it has potential  Grin!. Yeah. The sage is close to becoming a legend, or old wives tale. Heard about, whispered about, but never seen.

Some of the guys say I'm obsessive, over think things, or CDO. Pfffffft.  Beating A Dead Horse

The cannons and the wing attachment were the big hurdles; perhaps, maybe, just might, there's chance..... Roll Eyes

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Reply #390 - Feb 25th, 2020 at 9:18pm
 
And sometimes you do things just to see........
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Reply #391 - Mar 9th, 2020 at 7:23pm
 
Love the 20 mm canons; they are awesome!

Well done.
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Reply #392 - Mar 10th, 2020 at 2:45pm
 
Thank you Mike..... I'd love to be able to line them up this way but it's tough. Think I'll settle for the TLAR method.  Roll Eyes

A word to anyone who ever contemplates a MKIIc  Cheesy - decide BEFORE you start cutting stuff. Much easier to get holes bored at the proper angles and stuff.. Angry
I think this is rotated, and none of my utilities will fix it...

and excuse the shaky hands, still post time change  Cool
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Reply #393 - Mar 16th, 2020 at 3:38pm
 
This is all that's visible with the Merwyn Locks. Clean up the ends of the tubes...

A long ball driver will handle the bolts....might be nice to have a small electric screw driver
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Reply #394 - Mar 27th, 2020 at 3:44pm
 
Just planed the leading edge of one wing panel......does anyone need a bucket of tinder for starting fires??? Grin
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Reply #395 - Mar 31st, 2020 at 3:25pm
 
This is the part of building I like the most!  Angry  Nothing compares to taking a 3 piece, 8 foot long, wing that was never intended to be 3 piece, and sanding all the pieces to try and make them match.  Cry
Leading edge is 2 inches thick in the center, 1/2 inch thick at the ends, with several tapers  Beating A Dead Horse. His design of the tips is basic at best; still may be able to saw these off and make new ones.... Margaree Night
Oh well, sheeting is done   Raa Raa    just have to make it blend... Undecided
Hate the flaps  Angry may redo them.....
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Reply #396 - Mar 31st, 2020 at 3:40pm
 
Looks good Sandy, keep it up. Smiley
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Reply #397 - Mar 31st, 2020 at 3:53pm
 
Thanks glen. Could probably sell this thing to Vic a s a surf board.... Cheesy
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Reply #398 - Apr 16th, 2020 at 3:25pm
 
Little experimenting in metal work........my fingers hurt, but at least the bleeding stopped.... Angry
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Reply #399 - Apr 17th, 2020 at 9:05am
 
ooooo Shiny!  Looks good.

Fingers wrote on Apr 16th, 2020 at 3:25pm:
Little experimenting in metal work........my fingers hurt, but at least the bleeding stopped.... Angry

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Reply #400 - May 6th, 2020 at 7:33pm
 
OK. Made some standoffs of hardwood, and tried the covers on the gear. Certainly Stand Off scale, but with some twiddling and adjusting, these will work OK.
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Reply #401 - May 10th, 2020 at 3:54pm
 
And, just because I can
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Reply #402 - May 10th, 2020 at 4:59pm
 
Looking good, Sandy!
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Reply #403 - May 10th, 2020 at 6:04pm
 
Thanks Steve. Todd wants me to put tape on the fabric parts......jeeez that'll add another 3 years.
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Reply #404 - Jul 30th, 2020 at 7:34pm
 
I really hate covering,so practise, practise, practise. Pick small flat areas and try to keep the wrinkles out.  Undecided   Not attached yet of course...

Get a few surfaces done and I'll try glassing ...... Angry
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Reply #405 - Aug 30th, 2020 at 7:41pm
 
Well, another SNAFU!
Found the right elevator half had warped - Vaillencourt had them made from a lite ply trailing edge frame with ribs to the large leading edge.... Huh Sign   The counter balance had twisted so it stuck up into the wind stream....
Anyway, went to cover them ...crapolla.
Took a while with water and heat and twisting t'other way in jigs and BBQ skewer pins epoxied in from the end, and "think"  they're right. They'll do.
cover them now, can't attached to rudder structure till that's glued on...
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Reply #406 - Oct 6th, 2020 at 2:47pm
 
Well, not pretty but kinda done. Now the fuse.....

Think I am Going to have to put pinking tape on, at least a bit to cover some of the sh** errors.
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Reply #407 - Oct 7th, 2020 at 3:52pm
 
Fingers wrote on Oct 6th, 2020 at 2:47pm:
Well, not pretty but kinda done. Now the fuse.....

Think I am Going to have to put pinking tape on, at least a bit to cover some of the sh** errors.



At least Todd will like the addition of the pinking tape!
So maiden will be Oct 6th 2023?  Cheesy
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Reply #408 - Oct 7th, 2020 at 4:07pm
 
Dont rush me!
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Reply #409 - Oct 8th, 2020 at 12:34pm
 
Certainly not trying to rush you at all Sandy. I don't think this project and rush can be used in the same sentence anyway.

Only extrapolating the maiden date from your comments earlier  Grin


Thanks Steve. Todd wants me to put tape on the fabric parts......jeeez that'll add another 3 years.
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Reply #410 - Oct 8th, 2020 at 12:56pm
 
. Beating A Dead Horse Fun Bat No One Wins Margaree Night

Have to make a little hatch that fit on top of the fuse for filling the front tank. Have the hatch made actually, now a box for the fuel line to come up.
Small hinge, and a RE magnet to hold down...should work. Fuel dot underneath...

I THINK the AADD shit is done. Make some tape from the covering, iron on. Start glassing the fuse...yeah 2023 might be doable... Im Happy
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Reply #411 - Nov 19th, 2020 at 3:20pm
 
I have no idea what I'm doing here. I tried 1 piece of glass cloth on the other side, but the compound curves kind of made it suck.
This side is 3 pieces.
Chicken and egg shit - I'd like to cover the stringers on the fuse - back end. Once that is done I can finish the holes for rods and stuff. Can't cover the rear without the glass base on the sheeting up front, because the fabric goes over the glass.

As glen and I were laughing, fortunately the Hurricanes tended to be rode hard and put away wet - lots of dents and wear. Photos I have of real ones show they hardly have a flat panel on them.
Works for me.
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Reply #412 - Nov 22nd, 2020 at 4:20pm
 
Start gift wrapping the fuse......make a template to cut the solartex
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Reply #413 - Dec 6th, 2020 at 8:44pm
 
When I was a kid, I was never allowed to play with scissors. Partly because I was a klutz and would run with them, and also because I'm left-handed and in those days you seldom saw left-handed scissors. So never learned to use them properly... Blue Mooning

So crud...this is an exercise! Fortunately LHS are now readily available so I have a pair....

For the detail minded guys (Glen and MikeP), I doubt the "pink" is to scale, but SB 9 to the scale inch. The cuts aren't even reeeaaallllyyyy straight, but screwt.  Fun Bat
Todd, try scissors instead of cutting each notch by hand...
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Reply #414 - Dec 7th, 2020 at 4:21pm
 
When are pinking tapes straight? You mean you've done them "scale"  Grin
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Reply #415 - Dec 7th, 2020 at 4:58pm
 
. Smiley
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Reply #416 - Dec 14th, 2020 at 6:56pm
 
OK. First bit of covering on the fuse. Stuck the tail on just to see. Some panel marking there was well for the primer. My lord I did a wonderful job on this....
BUT   Wall Bash  this covering is so old, (how old is it?), that the adhesive is pretty well shot. Glen loaned me some Balsarite and it almost helps, but there are a few areas where the shit just doesn't stick. Crap... Crappy Day Margaree Night   So, I spent the weekend looking for fabric covering, like Coverite, 21st Century, blah blah nothing nada. Well some in the States, but either Horizon won't ship it to Canada, or Balsausa uses UPS and all their related extra costs.
Found a roll in Canada, Antique instead of white, but that might match the wooden front of the fuse. And since everything is to be painted, who cares. Anyway, this is coming off and will be replaced by the new 21st century. And I WILL be smearing Glen's Balsarite all over the sucker....
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Reply #417 - Dec 14th, 2020 at 8:40pm
 
Sandy , I did some research on your covering "Coverite 21st Century Fabric White" apparently it is discontinued and no longer produced. AMR in Quebec still sells it but have no white in stock. Also Great Hobbies same thing no white in stock. I couldn't even find any on eBay. sorry but it looks like you will have to use something other than Coverite.
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Reply #418 - Dec 14th, 2020 at 10:05pm
 
Thanks Kevin, but as I said, I did find a roll of coverite in Antique. It will be close to the colour of the balsa fuse up front so there shouldn't be a noticable colour shift.
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Reply #419 - Jan 25th, 2021 at 2:57pm
 
Well!!!!! The 21 Century I ordered turned out to be Oratex...poop.

If I put it off any longer it won't get done, so screwt! This material is lighter than 21, and the finish is different, more fabricky. but it's on. Finish will be a hodgepodge, but at 25 feet (8.something meters) I don't care.
The stuff does go on nicely, and the compound curves of the Hurricane fuse is awkward. Most of my wrinkles (?) came out with a heat gun so it' not too bad.
Onward. Glass the wing next.
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Reply #420 - Jan 26th, 2021 at 5:01pm
 
Looking good Sandy, keep the momentum going!
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Reply #421 - Jan 26th, 2021 at 7:10pm
 
gotta get it going again.....Some ideas I had are dumped, some things I will have to settle for. Time to clean up the wing and glass it..
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Reply #422 - Jan 29th, 2021 at 2:07pm
 
Make sure the laser is level, then level the fuse side to side and front to back, then re-level and check the laser again....Is it level fore and aft....side to side, bubble levels on the fuse don't match the laser lines, which.... Margaree Night Swear Word Naaah Wall Bash Violin Whine This is Good
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Reply #423 - Jan 29th, 2021 at 3:23pm
 
We will definitely be able to pick that out on a fly bye Wink
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Reply #424 - Jan 29th, 2021 at 3:32pm
 
Greg, I believe that I'll be forced to fall back an a very technical process during this next stage. The military called it TLAR, and if memory serves, the back-up to TLAR was FUBAR. I'm already just about at the end of the  SNAFU stage, so stepping down to these final stages is inevitable.
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Reply #425 - Jan 29th, 2021 at 4:32pm
 
I think you are far from the FUBAR stage yet!
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Reply #426 - Feb 5th, 2021 at 1:48pm
 
I think I'm better to put the vertical stab  on first, center it on the fuse lines. Then I can square the horizontal stab up to the rudder, and everything else...

Fin just has to be square to all the reference lines on the fuse. Horizontal Stab has to be level side to side and have 1.5deg + incidence in it, PLUS be square to the fuse.  Wall Bash
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Reply #427 - Feb 6th, 2021 at 1:06pm
 
Fin in place... Smiley   Stab needs the incidence...

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Reply #428 - Feb 28th, 2021 at 11:49am
 
It's difficult to put into words the thrill I get from putting pinking tape on the surfaces.. Wall Bash  No way am I going to put ALL the tape in ALL the places where the original was taped.
As it is, I calculate there are 2413 notches cut into the tape that I have stuck on. Right some fun  Naaah
I did do a test spray and the tape paints nicely - apparent but not overly obvious. If it stands out too much, un-named people like Glen and Mike would look for and find the mistakes..... excited Swear Word
Mostly the tape is there to hide some of my covering seams and buggers.  Fun Bat
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Reply #429 - Feb 28th, 2021 at 5:17pm
 
It is supposed to be a labor of love not a love of labor Sandy😃
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Reply #430 - Feb 28th, 2021 at 11:53pm
 
And I loved every 2413 notch!!!  Margaree Night
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Reply #431 - Mar 29th, 2021 at 1:58pm
 
Got a bit sidetracked on glassing the center section of the wing.  Dusty

Realized I hadn't connected the retract lines yet so THAT had to be done. Then "How am I going to finish the inside of the gear doors" - look at photos then "OK I'll do that". So did "that". Then "Missing something" oh yeah the air line, so did "that". OK, won't be bad once they're weathered a bit...

Then remembered that John would want his box of panel tools back and I hadn't done anything there yet.... Wall Bash So took a good look at my photos and low and behold the Hurricane has huge removable panels held on with Dzuz fasteners, rather than a lot of smaller panels rivetted on...
So, tried enough to make it look like....kinda, screwt.  Margaree Night
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Reply #432 - May 12th, 2021 at 7:25am
 
don't know how much interior there'll be. the cockpit kit doesn't really fit Vaillencourt's interior...Some instruments to come for sure, and switches etc.  MikeP thought the sight is a Ferranti MK1 gyroscopic sight, but did some research and it seems to be a standard "Gun Sight Gyroscopic MkII." the Ferranti has a different shape a bit.

MikeP wants me to do the throttle quadrant
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Reply #433 - May 22nd, 2021 at 8:00pm
 
Better view of the dash.

Actually, pretty lucky!  Thanks The holes in the panel are all Imperial, made with my Forstner bits, to copy the ones in the template Glen loaned me. I never liked the dash that came with the cockpit kit I bought years ago so I made a copy of his from 1/8 ply.  The kit had a prepared sheet of instruments all laid out in correct place, for his panel, and laminated between 2 sheets of laminating plastic. Of course this layout didn't match the dash I had. mmm Wall Bash

Fortunately Glen had earlier talked my into getting a set of Hollow Punches, and they are imperial  Thank You Loyal Fans....I backed my dash with a piece of clear plastic.....punched a few 1/8 instruments, put s drop of plastic cement in the holes, laid the instruments in and fiddled them into place!  Wowwza! Repeat for 1/4" and 2 x 1/2".......Bit of black paint on the back of everything to hide the few misses you can see, and, as the French say, Voila!!  Raa Raa
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Reply #434 - May 23rd, 2021 at 6:54am
 
Nice, keep the progress rolling Sandy!
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Reply #435 - Sep 25th, 2021 at 3:21pm
 
Well, whoever had 2021 in the pool, you win!!!

1st coat of colour, Medium Sea Grey, bottom of right outer panel. Entire plane gets this on the bottom, then the green is put on the top surfaces following the proscribed pattern.

When I started this thing 9 years ago, my eyes and hands were better than now, but screwt. Standoff scale it is.  Smiley
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Reply #436 - Oct 11th, 2021 at 2:16pm
 
Bottom of wing.........well dah..

flaps and servo covers to be finished and painted
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Reply #437 - Oct 12th, 2021 at 10:58am
 
Bottoms up! End is almost in site  Cool
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Reply #438 - Oct 14th, 2021 at 2:45pm
 
It's been a while since I've visited this site...you are moving right along Sandy; good stuff.

Your gunsight and instrument panel look great; you've obviously invested some time. And the brass tubing inside the cockpit is awesome!  I love that kind of subtle detail.

Soldier onwards.

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Reply #439 - Oct 14th, 2021 at 2:51pm
 
Thank you gents.......the huge question will be just how much weight do those subtle details add........ Wooo Weee Wall Bash

Aw well, it WILL fly once..
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Reply #440 - Oct 14th, 2021 at 7:19pm
 
Without any clear dimensions, except using a vernier on a 1:48 plastic model, here are the wing bulges for the cannons.

Might be wrong size. Likely wrong size. FUBAR! SNAFU! TLAR!!!   Fun Bat
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Reply #441 - Oct 21st, 2021 at 12:26pm
 
Final thing to be fabricated, those blisters on the cowl that cover the front of the Merlin valve covers....again, finding a definitive picture that agrees to another definitive picture is tough...A lot of this stuff was made by home industry, and there were many small shops making repair parts around the country.

Since my subject is from  3 SQDN up in Wick, Northeast Scotland, I did manage to find a source. Mr. Bernard Blythe-Hornwithel, 17 Barogi St., Wick,  had a small shop making pots, pans, fenders and bicycles.
He also made up replacement blisters for local craft needing cowl repairs.
Here is my version of what he would later shape into a form for forming sheet into a blister.  He has a pic of the completed form on his web site "Hornwithel's Stuff".

I will attempt to duplicate his work into something usable
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Reply #442 - Oct 23rd, 2021 at 3:10pm
 
Soldier on Sandy!
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Reply #443 - Oct 28th, 2021 at 2:34pm
 
Needed a break from trying to work litho.... Angry

First coat of Medium Sea Grey on top of wing........And yes, the pattern is off a bit on the left wing trailing edge...Not even a TLAR. But fixable.

Skipping from detail to detail seems to help...lolol
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Reply #444 - Dec 7th, 2021 at 12:43pm
 
To make sure the paint lined up between the wing and the fuse I did a little ......As I put the dark on I just wasn't sure it's green.

It IS the same green as the little ESM Hurricane, and matches several photos I have courtesy of Mike Pothier, so.....  This is only one coat of colour so far, I expect 2 more light coats is required...

I did notice that I'd forgot the second coat of primer on top of the wing  Wall Bash Wall Bash  but at this stage, you know what??

Gonna fly it like it is. If it flies well I may get back and redo the top of the wing some time. If it doesn't, oh well, no one will notice in the pile of debris...
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Reply #445 - Dec 8th, 2021 at 10:22am
 
They were not perfect only good when rolled out of manufacturing Sandy.
Condition deteriorated quickly from then on. I think it’ll be fine.
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Reply #446 - Dec 8th, 2021 at 10:59am
 
Yeah. In 1939 they used templates in the factories. By mid '40 sprayed freehand. In the field the Erks used a bucket of dope and a white wash brush.

And these from 3 Sqdn up in Wick, flew in sea air all the time. Everything got bleached and washed out pretty badly.

TLAR!!
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Reply #447 - Dec 21st, 2021 at 4:38pm
 
Last items to be added are the blisters on the cowl, covering the engine heads. I never did find a real good image, or definition of size, so I just TLAR'ed them. Spent some time with litho, and while I did learn a bit about that stuff, I never did get a good blister. Not annealed enough so didn't work; annealed too much so melted; everything in between except that perfect temperature  Wall Bash  Finally took me master and jammed it into some clay and poured casting resin in.

Made collars out of tape so when I faired the blisters in with compund, a lip was left. Once they're cleaned up I can put some rivets on the flanges....

Far from perfect but not many people will know, except all you guys if any one is still reading this thread lolol.
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Reply #448 - Dec 21st, 2021 at 8:24pm
 
Don’t rush the process Sandy!
Thursday will be the 10th anniversary since this thread started.🎂🍻🎉😜
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Reply #449 - Dec 21st, 2021 at 9:34pm
 
Will fly 2022.
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Reply #450 - Dec 22nd, 2021 at 4:08pm
 
Really looking forward to seeing the maiden of that one!
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Reply #451 - Dec 24th, 2021 at 11:15pm
 
Please let us all know when the maiden will happen as it has been so long in the build we want to see the final end to the build and the beginning of the flying phase.
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Reply #452 - Dec 24th, 2021 at 11:32pm
 
At this point my biggest hope is that Shearwater opens. I'd love to have that 5 or 6  miles of runway  Cheesy to land on.......
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Reply #453 - Dec 25th, 2021 at 7:19pm
 
Some times landing on grass is a little softer and more forgiving than asphalt. But we'll see as Shearwater now has approval to re-open in the spring.
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Reply #454 - Dec 30th, 2021 at 7:11pm
 
OK. Back to work!

1st coat on top of wing.....likely 2 more light coats.
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Reply #455 - Feb 1st, 2022 at 5:39pm
 
Looks good Sandy.

Soldier on!
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Reply #456 - Mar 17th, 2022 at 1:42pm
 
Getting some colour on the fuse. misting coats on a bit at a time.....Like everything else, slow...
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Reply #457 - Mar 18th, 2022 at 3:54pm
 
Fingers wrote on Mar 17th, 2022 at 1:42pm:
Getting some colour on the fuse. misting coats on a bit at a time.....Like everything else, slow...

You're just like my wife with a camera....learn to FOCUS.

Ha Ha
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Reply #458 - Mar 18th, 2022 at 10:42pm
 
KevinM wrote on Mar 18th, 2022 at 3:54pm:
Fingers wrote on Mar 17th, 2022 at 1:42pm:
Getting some colour on the fuse. misting coats on a bit at a time.....Like everything else, slow...

You're just like my wife with a camera....learn to FOCUS.

Ha Ha

It's a freaking phone camera. I hate them, but that's what was handy at the time..... Fun Bat
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Reply #459 - Mar 20th, 2022 at 2:40pm
 
Other side, misting colour on.....
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Reply #460 - Mar 21st, 2022 at 9:28am
 
Nice pics...focused!
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Reply #461 - Mar 21st, 2022 at 10:14pm
 
Camera.  Angry
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Reply #462 - Apr 1st, 2022 at 7:39pm
 
final paint, i think. I should put it all together and see what it looks like....
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« Last Edit: Apr 1st, 2022 at 7:41pm by Fingers »  

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Reply #463 - Apr 1st, 2022 at 8:34pm
 
Finish line insight Sandy!
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Reply #464 - Apr 8th, 2022 at 2:20pm
 
Interior.....still some side panels, throttle quadrant, seat, stick, gun sight.....oh, and compass
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Reply #465 - Apr 8th, 2022 at 8:35pm
 
All the above you listed are not required to fly the plane!!!! Cheesy
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Reply #466 - Apr 8th, 2022 at 9:28pm
 
KevinM wrote on Apr 8th, 2022 at 8:35pm:
All the above you listed are not required to fly the plane!!!! Cheesy


Yeah I know.  But a fighter has to have a cockpit. Place for a peeelot to sit. Jeeeeeez    And with out at least a compass, how the hell does the peeeelot find his way around...?
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Reply #467 - May 18th, 2022 at 7:10pm
 
Ok. Don't care much for the Hood, the imprints for the frame are much too wide. If and when, I may carve up a form and make a smooth Hood, so i can do a litho frame.

But NO, that's not now. I'll just fit the hood, touch up some paint and install the radio shit.
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Reply #468 - May 18th, 2022 at 7:30pm
 
I'll have you know radios are not shit!!!!!!

Retired Comm/Radar tech RCAF
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Reply #469 - May 18th, 2022 at 7:40pm
 
STATIC....all I hear is statizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzccckkkzss Blue Mooning
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Reply #470 - May 19th, 2022 at 9:31am
 
RADAR was the secret weapon in the battle of Britain, you know! Didn't hurricanes fly during that time?  Tongue
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Reply #471 - May 19th, 2022 at 1:44pm
 
Yup. Except my particular model was based in Wick, way up in northern Scotland, where they could protect the ships in Scapa Flow.

All the interference from commando styled Highlanders likely made RADAR moot. A bunch of them were based along the headland, facing South East. when a signal came in about intruders, they just hiked their kilts....... Fun Bat

The incoming raiders would just turn tail and go home - no contest.... Your Scary
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Reply #472 - Jul 2nd, 2022 at 4:33pm
 
Haven't visited this thread for a while. 

It's coming along nicely Sandy.  You did a particularly nice job on the cockpit.

Steady your course.

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Reply #473 - Jul 2nd, 2022 at 4:36pm
 
Did you know that Old Pluteney single malt scotch comes from Wick Smiley

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Reply #474 - Jul 3rd, 2022 at 7:19am
 
MkIX wrote on Jul 2nd, 2022 at 4:36pm:
Did you know that Old Pluteney single malt scotch comes from Wick Smiley



I have heard that. must find a bottle.  Margaree Night

Time for markings to start going on ....
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Reply #475 - Jul 3rd, 2022 at 2:55pm
 
Fingers wrote on Jul 3rd, 2022 at 7:19am:
MkIX wrote on Jul 2nd, 2022 at 4:36pm:
Did you know that Old Pluteney single malt scotch comes from Wick Smiley



I have heard that. must find a bottle.  Margaree Night

Time for markings to start going on ....


Remember zero kills until it has flown!!!  Lips Sealed Cheesy
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Reply #476 - Jul 6th, 2022 at 10:33am
 
WOW! This is by far the most tedious part of this destruction!

Trying to mask the hood for painting.....I'm not happy with the Vailly supplied hood - frame is much too wide. If the thing flies, I might try to carve a new hood and pull it with polycarb.

For now, this will have to do...gotta go trim some more....
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Reply #477 - Jul 6th, 2022 at 12:25pm
 
HI, I was planning to ask you this a while ago, but seeing the pic again , what white bi-plane is in image you posted ?
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Reply #478 - Jul 6th, 2022 at 12:35pm
 
Ah! that is an 80" span Stampe. Gradually converting to 20cc from 120 glow. Will be done in Belgian markings.

Having been to the opthamilythingybob, I figure I'm going to need larger, slower planes, so that's a start.

Pretty much the same as the Tiger Moth, designed the same time, but different fin and larger engine. It almost appears as if DeHavilland had a stray Dutch/Belgian technician in the hanger in the mid 30's.
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Reply #479 - Jul 16th, 2022 at 3:46pm
 
Some thing wrong here, just can't see it...
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Reply #480 - Jul 16th, 2022 at 9:17pm
 
only thing I can see is the track for the canopy needs to be drawn on.
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Reply #481 - Jul 18th, 2022 at 12:43pm
 
Oh Yeah!!!
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Reply #482 - Jan 17th, 2023 at 3:19pm
 
working with this vinyl stuff is nerve wracking....for me anyway...

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