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HurricaneMkII (Read 310,094 times)
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Reply #320 - Nov 10th, 2017 at 3:49pm
 
OK! I can fix the trailing edge of the wing, not too bad there, so I did cut the whole seat back in a bit, to make it NOT fair out so far ala Spit. (Dunno what this world is coming to where I actually listen to Eastman's ideas OMG!)  Grin
Marc, I checked other views I have (why do they so seldom take pics of the right side of the aircraft???) That does seem to be where the filet rides, and where it ends. There's a hatch on the right side, and the bottom of the filet stops about right relative to the hatch...the sweep up has to stop before the fabric  Undecided
I'm stuck now, so this is what It will be..taking material off is always easier than putting material back on...only Mike, now Marc, and I will ever question those fairings, and we know we're correct.  Pic attached, don't know if clearly shows the change...
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Reply #321 - Nov 17th, 2017 at 10:15pm
 
This is what I did, so this is correct. Standard military FUBAR.
If that sounds a bit rigid, it's because the other side is pretty close to this side  Angry so we takes it.
Plans show for the front to be filled with body putty, and Glen has suggested epoxy and micro balloons. I like the mb idea, but first will fill some of the area with triangle stock...just because balsa is lighter than epoxy... Undecided
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Reply #322 - Nov 18th, 2017 at 9:34am
 
looking good sandy.
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Reply #323 - Dec 10th, 2017 at 9:20pm
 
OK! Three piece wing needs a wing tube! Well there is another way, but I'm not sure about the engineering involved.  Undecided
I acquired a 1" diam (that's 2.54cm to you modern guys) CF tube, courtesy of the generosity of Mrs. Miller, whose pink shower curtains now lay on the bathroom floor beside the tub. Thank you GWS!  Raa Raa
A one inch tube requires a socket, into through witch  Shocked one slides the tube whence assembling the pieces of subject wing. Mrs. Miller's Mr. Miller and I measured the wing, from rib 7 through to rib 7, at 44 inches. A cursory trip through the web/net/google/yahoo leads me to belive no-one sells sockets at 44 inches. And if they did the cost of getting it here would be yuge, bigly, and ginormous.
Mr. Cool talked me through the process: secure CF tube; wrap said CF tube with 2 layers of wax paper; wrap fiber glass cloth around the tube with lots of epoxy/resin. Once cured, remove CF tube from wax paper; remove wax paper from inside the fiber glass socket. EASY  Grin Roll Eyes
Removing tube wasn't bad. Removing wax paper from INSIDE the new socket, another story....
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Reply #324 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 7:54am
 
The wax paper removal is always the fun part. The tube looks great! I hope I didn't steer you wrong with the two raps.  That's what I always did and it worked great.
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Reply #325 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 4:47pm
 
Don't you just love it when something comes out right??? I think I would, if that ever happened  Cry.

Actually, the wing tube socket did just that!! Tube slid out of the socket/wax paper thingy with little effort. Then used long needle nose pliers to get in the tube a bit and untwist the WP wrap stuck to the resin inside.....Unfortunately this technique only goes so far, and that's not as far as the other end of the tube. So, to make it easier, almost easy, I knew the lengths I needed for the tube - center and 2 outside wing panels. Cut the socket into three, and unwound the WP wrap in three different tubes.  Huh Sign
And, dare I say AND (!!!) the tube slides through the sockets as slick as **** through a goose. Cheesy No play, but no push either....This might work.  Now I'll slide the sockets back on the tube and clean up the rough stuff, but inside fits.  Raa Raa
Thank you Al kind sir.
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Reply #326 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 5:43pm
 
There you go Sandy, looks usable.
BTW, I thought we weren't going to discuss where the cf rod came from  Roll Eyes
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Reply #327 - Dec 11th, 2017 at 9:24pm
 
Don't see any discussion. Monologue maybe, discussion no.

Besides, Mrs. Miller doesn't read these pages does she? Ipso, not going to see where the shower curtain rod went... Fun Bat
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Reply #328 - Dec 12th, 2017 at 11:38am
 
Sandy after many years of building high power rockets with composite materials; including making tubes 1.5 to 4 inches in diameter, vacuum bagging & laminating with fiber glass, Kevlar (bugger to work with BTW) and carbon fiber. Wax paper is the not a great release material, parchment paper and car wax are the most economical and effective materials I found. Parchment paper has a silicone component that prevents resin from curing to it. Better material than wax paper to put on bench as a barrier when using epoxy too.
Getting a cured tube off a composite mandrel can be a task, certainly harder that using an aluminum mandrel that can be thrown in the freezer and the difference in contraction between the two materials usually makes removal from the mandrel a heck of a lot easier!
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Reply #329 - Dec 12th, 2017 at 11:44am
 
Thanks Greg. All good info. This is really what this build is about - new ideas. I'm sure some guys newer to the hobby read my prolonged nattering and think "jeez do they really do that kind of thing?"
Course, others read it and think "wish the bugger would shut up and finish the darn plane.."
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Reply #330 - Dec 14th, 2017 at 4:15pm
 
K! Tube slid in the center section "just" to be sure it fits and surely does. Other two tubes will be build into the outer panels as they are built. I "think"  Huh it's wise to have this center part ready to go so everything can be lined up and true.....
The external diameter of the socket is 1.02", so the cloth and resin aren't very thick at all. But that .02" is more than the tolerances in my set of Forstner bits. SO..
Dug in my father's old tool box and found his 1940's era hole cutter. Fully adjustable, cutter from a metal lathe, fits a pillar drill..so I'm going to make a bunch of doublers for either side of the ribs. Hole will be just large enough to take the socket, one either side of each rib..1/8 ply should do the job..
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Reply #331 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 2:16am
 
I found running the cutter backwards works best. Forwards it just digs in ....
Nice work sandy... maybe flitetest will have a hurri soon. Then off to dollarama... Huhy
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Reply #332 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 8:52am
 
Thanks Brian, I'll give the backwards a try.. Smiley

But there's still no hurry for the Hurri...
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Reply #333 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 11:14am
 
Never heard about turning an adjustable circle cutter backwards. I use the same cutter to cut plywood for round bulkheads using a large drill press turning at a moderate rpm rate and have not had an issues with the cutter digging in so long as the material being cut is securely held down. If the material being cut is not big enough to clamp to the drill press table I have used a piece of laminate floor as a backer/holder and stuck the material to be cut to this, using 2 sided carpet tape. It will usually hold onto plywood long enough to cut the circle but it sticks to the laminate floor piece or any smooth surface material like sh*t to a wool blanket Smiley
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Reply #334 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 12:26pm
 
Greg..... Wink
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Reply #335 - Dec 15th, 2017 at 7:46pm
 
Dilemma time: If you look at the picture of the socket tube in the center section, you can see above the tube another set of holes through the ribs. Now those holes are closer to the center of lift of the foil. It would be nice to have the wing tube located in those holes, further forward. But, as you can see, the wheels block off anything going through those holes.
If I use those holes, My wing tube only grabs 2 ribs, about 7 inches, in the center section. Using the holes I show, I can run the tube all the way through.
So question: Can I get away with the front holes (7") either side, or am I better using the back holes and being behind the center of force..................
This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good This is Good Beating A Dead Horse
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Reply #336 - Dec 16th, 2017 at 4:09pm
 
Easy peazy.....making the doubler disks will be piece of cake...and not a sign of "dig in"!
Now make a bunch of them, and shape them ti fit the rib. I think Hysol is the adhesive of choice
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Reply #337 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 9:36am
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 16th, 2017 at 4:09pm:
Easy peazy.....making the doubler disks will be piece of cake...and not a sign of "dig in"!
Now make a bunch of them, and shape them ti fit the rib. I think Hysol is the adhesive of choice



haha Hysol is the only thing I recognize from the past 10 posts...  Anyone well that and curtain rod.  Shower Surprise  Keep up the great work Sandy, I am still enjoying the thread after 5 years and counting!  This is Good
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Reply #338 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 2:58pm
 
To quote the very first comment on this thread

"OK guys, here we go, slowly, deathly slowly, snore"  Angry

u ben warned!!

Another group of informed builders (and Colin) suggested I use two tubes in both sets of rib holes. More than enough to take any strain from the weight...good anti rotation pins front and back, lag bolt holding things together.  Smiley
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« Last Edit: Dec 18th, 2017 at 3:00pm by Fingers »  

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Reply #339 - Dec 20th, 2017 at 2:58pm
 
Fingers wrote on Dec 18th, 2017 at 2:58pm:
To quote the very first comment on this thread

"OK guys, here we go, slowly, deathly slowly, snore"  Angry

u ben warned!!

Another group of informed builders (and Colin) suggested I use two tubes in both sets of rib holes. More than enough to take any strain from the weight...good anti rotation pins front and back, lag bolt holding things together.  Smiley


Yes Sandy I am still hurt you didn't respond to my well articulated facebook jab  Grin
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