Just because I could, and because I really wanted something sheeted, I made up the doghouse for behind the cockpit.
Used a piece of file folder to get the shape, made two pieces from 1/8 sheet and glued them together....this is a place where you should use carpenters glue of some kind - it sands better than CA  (wipe surplus glue off as soon as you put sides together). Put the pieces together and tape with plastic electrical tape - this stuff stretches so will put a little "clamping motion" on the pieces. You'll likely have to put weights on both sides to ensure they stay flat.
Once dry I sprayed the outside with ammonia window cleaner and worked the piece around a small can to get some curve, then taped it over the fuse to dry. I put some Saran wrap (advertisement) under the piece to keep the water off the stringers.
Piece is dry this morning and ready to glue - yeh! 

I like the vaccum formed

What are you going to do for the part that is missing at the top?

Have a cockpit kit Ben, and there's a gun sight to fill the hole...

Yup, didn't feel like spending 150 Euro for some plastic. I appreciate some of these guys put a ton of work into their creations, but being retarded sorry retired I can't keep up. I got a kit from Dynamic Balsa..was able to pick and choose what i wanted. Didn't bother with the soldered brass frame. got the seat, dash, compass, gun sight - the kind of stuff you see easily.

most of those views are skeptics, proving to them selves I'm not progressing - they can see the page count is still at 8....once I really get back at it, and the page count hits 50 or 60  they'll lose interest......

Well, something I'd let slip from memory is that, YOU HAVE TO PLAN AHEAD..   Suddenly realized that I was thinking of starting to begin finishing the stringers, but hadn't done anything about the tank yet, nor the cowl 

Since I don't want a ring of small screws around the edge of the cowl, guess maybe have to use something else..Using the firewall as a template, I cut a ply ring - traced shape on plywood, cut outside to shape, then figured where i wanted bolt tabs, drew inside and cut with trusty sabre. Spacing of tabs was important; need enough (4 likely) but also want flexibility so down the road if the plane flies and looks like it will last  i could "consider" scale exhaust (Todd) and would need to split the cowl along the scale seam. 

Ring fits..

I had always hoped to hide both the switch, and the retract air fillerupper (very technical term). The hurricane has 2 large hatches on the starboard side, but few people ever take pictures or draw 3 views of that side.

Turns out Dave Rowe, from Shearwater, has a drawing hanging on the wall at the museum, with a scaled drawing of the right side....    Piece of tracing paper, 5 minutes, sketch of the area in question. Trip to Kwik Kopy, scaled up tracing, taped to side of fuse, jiggling, juggling, profile of the 2 hatches. I'll make both, but only gonna use the rear one, and I'm going to truncate it to fit between the formers (shhhh don' tell anyone), but the switch will be in there..

The company that puts out the cockpit kit i bought says the floor is 6" down from the sill of the cockpit...that's about at the top of the tape. The seat tho is roughly where it has to be to suit the pilot....
I thought the pilots' legs stuck out straighter than they suggest....think I'll go with the floor just under the crutch. If the pilots legs don't fit I'll do a "Doug Bader"

Nice work Sandy!  Your getting there.
I like your parallel blocks too.